VALPARAISO. 165 



" tertain secret hatred," on the discovery of San Martin's infamous 

 designs against the state he had sworn to serve. These charges are 

 so frivolous, so mean, so paltry, so much what a thief at the foot of 

 the gallows would be apt to lay against an innocent man who had 

 offended him, that I have always felt that, in this case, to vindicate 

 the integrity and freedom from corruption of such a man, would be 

 an affront to his virtues.* 



9Hth. — I paid a visit to Madame Zenteno the governor's lady, a 

 pleasing, lively little woman, who received me very politely, and sent 

 for her husband, who came immediately, and seemed delighted to 

 display the English comforts of the apartment I was received in. An 

 English carpet, an English grate, and even English coals, were all 

 very agreeable on this cold raw day. Zenteno assured me that he 

 found a fire thus burned in an open stove was the best promoter of 

 conversation, and regretted the many years he had passed without 

 even guessing at its comforts. He is properly anxious to promote a 

 taste for the elegancies of civilised life; but under any other circum- 

 stances, I should say that there was even a little affectation in his 

 great admiration for everything English. However, the people of 

 Valparaiso are indebted to him for considerable improvements in the 

 roads and streets ; and a plan for a new market-place, as soon as 

 the funds will permit, is to be carried into execution. These things 

 seem little to Europeans. But they forget that this Valparaiso, one 

 of the greatest ports on this side of the vast continent of South Ame- 

 rica, is little more in appearance than an English fishing town. 

 Sidmouth is a capital city in comparison. From the governor's house 

 I went to the jail, a strong uncomfortable building now empty. The 

 prisoners are transferred to the hospital of San Juan de Dios ; and 

 I am ashamed to say the Spanish prisoners from Lima, sent by San 

 Martin, are there also, along with the common felons. The Spaniards 

 were in so wretched a condition on their arrival, that the English 

 inhabitants, in order to save them from starving, have raised a 



* Aikin's translation of the life of Agricola. 



