202 JOURNAL. 



Soon after dinner to-day, Mr. de Roos and I accompanied Don 

 Antonio de Cotapos and two of his sisters to the plain on the south- 

 west side of the town, to see the Chinganas, or amusements of the 

 common people. On every feast-day they assemble at this place, 

 and seem to enjoy themselves very much in lounging, eating sweet 

 puffs fried on the spot in oil, and drinking various liquors, but espe- 

 cially chicha, while they listen to a not disagreeable music played on 

 the harp, guitar, tambourine, and triangle, accompanied by women's 

 voices, singing of love and patriotism. The musicians are placed in 

 waggons covered with reeds, or regularly thatched, where they sit 

 playing to draw custom to little tables, placed around with cakes, 

 liquors, flowers, which those attracted by the songs buy for them- 

 selves or the lasses they wish to treat. Some of the flowers, such 

 as carnations and ranunculuses, are extravagantly dear : half a dollar is 

 frequently asked for a single one, and a yellow ranunculus, with petals 

 tipped with crimson and a green centre, is worth at least a dollar, in 

 order to make a present of. Men, women, and children, are passion- 

 ately fond of the Chinganas. The whole plain is covered with parties 

 on foot, on horseback, in caleches, and even in carts ; and, although for 

 the fashionables, the Almeida is most in vogue, yet there is no want 

 of genteel company at the Chinganas * : every body seemed equally 

 happy and equally orderly. In so great a crowd in England, there 

 would surely have been a ring or two for a fight ; but nothing of the 

 kind occurred here, although there was a good deal of gambling and 

 some drinking. In the evening I joined the family Tertulla, where 

 the usual music and dancing and gossip went on ; and I found that 

 even in Chile the beauty and dress of one young lady is criticised by 

 another just as with us. And now I think of it, I am sure I never 

 saw so many very pretty women in one day, as I beheld to day : 1 am 

 not sure that any were of transcendant beauty, but I am quite sure I 

 did not see one plain. They are generally of the middle size, well 

 made, and walk well, with fine hair and beautiful eyes, as many 



* See Frezier. 



