SANTIAGO. 211 



instead of overflowing, is now conveyed in a regular canal, with 

 shrubs on each side, and gravel walks for foot passengers, and wider 

 roads for carriages and horses ; about one third of this is done, and 

 the rest is in progress. 



28th. — St. Austin's Day. I am no favourite with the saint, for 

 he has been thwarting me all day long. But all things in order. 

 Early in the morning I heard a bell ringing exactly like that which 

 on winter evenings in London announces the approach of " muf- 

 fins ;" I looked out, and saw first, a boy ringing the said bell, then 

 another with a bundle of candles : all the people in the streets 

 pulled off their hats, and stood as if doing homage. Then came a 

 dark blue caleche, with glories and holy ghosts painted on it, and 

 a man within dressed in white satin, embroidered with silver and 

 coloured silk. In front sat a man with a gilt lanthorn ; behind, 

 people with umbrellas. I asked what it was, and was told it was the 

 Padre Eterno. The expression sounds indecent to a protestant ; 

 it is holy to a Spaniard, who must think that such indeed is the Host 

 on its way to a dying person ; — such in fact was the procession 

 I saw. This was the only thing that happened before the disappoint- 

 ments occasioned by St. Austin began. The first of these occurred 

 when I went with Mr. de Roos to see the Lancasterian school ; we 

 found the boys all gone to Mass in honour of St. Austin, and the 

 school shut : we proceeded to the national printing-office ; the doors 

 were shut, and the printers at Mass. Thence we went to the chamber 

 of the Consulada, hoping to be present at a session of the convention : 

 but the members were at Mass. Then despairing of seeing any 

 public place or people, I thought I would draw ; so repaired to the 

 Placa, where I had been promised a balcony to sketch from : but the 

 master had gone to Mass, and taken the keys in his pocket ; so I 

 went home, resolving to do better in the afternoon, and began to 

 sketch the inner pateo of the house : but, being a holiday, numerous 

 visitors came, and little was done. 



After dinner I took fresh courage, and set off with Madame Cota- 

 pos and her daughters to visit the nunnery of St. Austin : but it had 



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