216 JOURNAL. 



The luncheon at Don Henriquez's was all the produce of the farm. 

 Sausages as good as those of Bologna ; bread of his own wheat, as 

 white as that made of the Sicilian grain ; butter that the dairies of 

 England might have been proud of; and of the wines I have spoken 

 already. I was delighted with the visit in every way ; the hospitality 

 of the house, and the improvements going on, which must all tend to 

 the good of the country. 



Soon after we reached home, I received a magnificent present of 

 fruit and flowers from Doha Rosa O'Higgins. The fruit was water- 

 melons, lucumas, oranges, and sweet limes, no others being as yet in 

 season ; and the flowers, of all the finest and rarest. They were ar- 

 ranged on trays, covered with embroidered napkins, and borne on 

 the heads of servants in the full dress of the palace livery ; one out 

 of livery entering first to pay me a compliment from the lady. At 

 night the young ladies Cotapos, and their brother, Don Jose Antonio, 

 danced for me the cuando, a national dance. It is performed by two 

 persons, and begins slowly like a minuet ; it then quickens according 

 to the music and the song, which represent a sort of loving quarrel 

 and final agreement ; the skill of the dancer consisting in holding his 

 body steady, beating the ground with inconceivable quickness with 

 his feet in a measure called zapatear (to s7we). Doha Mariquita played 

 and sung the song which she herself has adapted to the music, the 

 ordinary verses being love verses, which she does not choose to sing, 

 being proper for the gentleman to sing to his partner. But there are 

 several songs to the cuando ; and in the country where Sancho 

 Panca's language is spoken, it is to be supposed that some are 

 burlesque. * 



* First Cuando. 



Anda ingrata que algun dia 

 Con las mudanzas del tiempo, 

 Lloraras como yo lloro, 

 Sentiras como yo siento. 



Cuando, cuando, 



Cuando, mi vida cuando. 



