224 JOURNAL. 



moonlight is still more so, — the defects are less seen, the beauties 

 more observed. At night the shadows cast by the far-projecting 

 roofs prevent our noticing the lowness of the houses ; but the wide 

 streets, and handsome public buildings, and, above all, the lofty 

 mountains, which tower above every thing, and which, although at 

 least twenty miles hence, seem actually to touch the city, appear to 

 the greatest advantage. 



Sunday, Sept. 1st, 1822. — I went this evening with my friends to 

 the house of the ladies Godoy, where we found M. Prevost, and about 

 a dozen other persons, apparently waiting for us to take a walk into 

 the country. Accordingly we set off, the elder ladies in caleches, 

 the rest of us on foot, to the plain where the Chinganas usually are. 

 But, alas ! no Chinganas were there. The city is making a nine- 

 days' rogation to St. Isidore for rain ; and the amusements of the 

 common people are hushed by way of assistance. However, though 

 the musicians' waggons are banished from the plain, there is the 

 usual quantity of frying, roasting, and codling, going on at the fruit- 

 stalls, and at least as much drinking ; and the people gaping about, 

 seemingly wondering what St. Isidore and the rogation have to do 

 with the singing- women, who must to-day lose their accustomed reals 

 and medios. However they take it quietly, and say, " To be sure the 

 gardens want rain, and the padres know best how to pray." When 

 all our party had reached the plain, we walked towards one of the 

 prettiest parts of it, and there we found that the servants of the house 

 of Godoy had laid carpets, and set chairs and cushions for the party ; 

 and, at little tables adjoining, they were making tea and matee with 

 milk, and had fruits and cakes for the party. As soon as we were 

 seated, Dona Carmen Godoy presented us each with a flower ; she 

 is remarkably lively, and had some pleasant thing to say to each. 

 The cavaliers began to serve the ladies, and we passed an hour very 

 pleasantly, and then walked about among the people, observing their 

 different dresses and games. The young ladies are not allowed by 

 custom to take the arm of a cavalier, although they waltz and dance 

 with them. Some few fair Chilenos are beginning to break through 

 this rule ; but our young ladies continue to be exceedingly punctil- 



