228 JOURNAL. 



We seated ourselves in one of the verandas, and ate the luncheon 

 we had brought with us ; and I was so cold that I was glad to drink 

 the warm water from the spring with my wine, and warm my hands 

 in it. While the horses were getting ready, Dona Mariquita and 

 I had the curiosity to enter one of the rooms which we found open, 

 and dearly we paid for our curiosity ; for we were instantly covered 

 with myriads of fleas, who I suppose had had no fresh food for 

 several months, for they attacked us so unmercifully, that I thought 

 I had some violent eruption on my skin. After we had mounted 

 and reached the little knoll behind the chapel, I stood a moment 

 to look back at the tenantless houses, deserted fane, bare bleak 

 banks, and now darkly lowering clouds ; so different from the cheer- 

 ful character which I have been told belongs to it in summer, when 

 the sick and old who come in quest of health and vigour, bear a 

 small proportion to the young and strong who come in search of 

 pleasure or beauty, which last the Colinas waters are firmly believed 

 to bestow : but though Doiia Mariquita and I applied them to our 

 faces, we were not sensible of any change ; and so had no fairy tales 

 to tell after our journey. As soon as we quitted the gorge, instead 

 of pursuing the road back to the city, we turned to the right ; and 

 after a gallop of three leagues arrived at the village of Colinas, 

 the first stage from St. Iago to Mendoza, and about halfway between 

 the city and the famous field of Chacabuco. 



About half a mile beyond the church of Colinas is the hacienda 

 of Don Jorge Godoy, with whose lady and daughter I am well ac- 

 quainted. There we were to sleep, and so return home in the morn- 

 ing. We found the old gentleman sitting at his door after the fa- 

 tigues of the day in his cap and slippers, and poncho. He very rarely 

 goes to town, but resides here with his nephew, like a patriarch in 

 the midst of his husbandmen. It began to rain heavily, to the credit 

 of St. Isidore, as soon as we got into the house ; and we congratu- 

 lated ourselves on being sheltered from the storm, and having the 

 comfort of a huge brassero of coals, and sheepskins laid under our 



