viluca. 255 



so that the scene reminded me of some of those quiet rich views we 

 have in the heart of England, — a few sheep grazing on the green 

 banks, and cattle spotted like our Lancashire cows, added to the like- 

 ness. Coming suddenly to such a place gives one a feeling not 

 unlike that of the sailors who found the broken spoon, marked 

 " London," in Kamschatka : I could scarcely persuade myself that I 

 had not been often and familiarly at the place before. 



Four leagues from the farm of Salinas lies the house of Viluca, 

 which is one of the most remarkable in the country : it belongs to 

 the Marques la Rayna, and is a princely establishment, kept in ex- 

 cellent order. The chaplain presides in the house, and there is 

 always an establishment of servants ; so that travellers are always 

 welcomed, whether the master be there or not. There are a certain 

 number of rooms appointed for their accommodation, and a table is 

 kept for them ; so that, known or unknown, the stranger is at home at 

 Viluca. The house is good and substantial, and well furnished, though 

 plainly for the country : the garden is a jewel in its kind ; the walks 

 and alleys are paved in mosaic ; the parterres laid out in every fan- 

 tastic shape, and each has its little run of water round it ; the centre 

 of each has also its pyramid, or urn, or basket, nicely clipped, of rose- 

 mary just in blossom ; and all around wall-flowers, pinks, ranunculuses, 

 and anemones : over-head, the orange, lime, lemon, and pomegranate, 

 form a shade ; and along by the house, birds of all kinds have their 

 appropriate cages, with living plants within. This garden opens to 

 a wide alley of trellis-work, over which vines are led as a shade ; and 

 on either hand are orchards of fruit trees and vineyards. From the 

 gardens we went to see the granaries, the slaughter-houses, and the 

 drying lofts for hides and charqui ; which are all upon a grander scale, 

 and more carefully kept, than any thing I have seen as yet. The 

 cattle on this estate is computed at 9000 head ; last year 2000 were 

 killed, and the hides sold in one lot to an English merchant at twenty- 

 two reals a piece. Some complaint is made that, since the beginning 

 of the civil war, the number of cattle in Chile is greatly decreased, 

 and the blame is laid on the war. The evil, so far as it is an evil, 



