TALAGANTE. 



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ters came to visit us. It was to this lady's house that the youno- 

 men had ridden in the morning. She apologised for her husband's 

 absence, on account of a severe indisposition. I have seldom seen 

 a more pleasing ladylike woman, and her daughters are quite worthy 

 of her. I was really glad of her presence, and the countenance I de- 

 rived from it in my lodging. It being Sunday night, the principal 

 room, which I thought was ours, filled with persons of all classesand 

 sexes, and the usual amusements began. First, the gracioso, with his 

 staff in the middle of the floor, performed a number of antics, and 

 made speeches to every person present. He then sent for his harp, 

 and played, while all manner of persons danced all sorts of dances. 

 Dona Rosario and I, seated on our bed, with our visitors by us, saw 

 as much or as little as we pleased of the holiday evening of a pul- 

 peria. These scenes, however, are only delightful in description. 

 Le Sage, or Smollet, might have woven a charming chapter out of 

 Dona Josefas' inn ; but, like certain Dutch pictures, the charm is in 

 the skill of the representation, not the scenes themselves. I was 

 really sorry when Dona Dolores left us ; but I believe the company 

 took it as a hint to depart, for we saw no more of them. Shortly 

 after we had seen the ladies to their carriage, we discovered that a 

 large house in the neighbourhood was on fire, and thither every body 

 flocked : the night was intensely cold ; and as soon as I had heard 

 that there were no inhabitants to be injured by the conflagration, I 

 returned to the house, having a slight pain in my side. 



16th Sept. — We left San Francisco by Talagante, intending to go 

 close by the mountain of San Miguel, to the farm where the new 

 Mapocho comes by several copious springs from under-ground. We 

 stopped at the Cacique's to pay our compliments, and bought some 

 small jars and platters of red claj, ornamented with streaks of earth, 

 to which iron pyrites give the appearance of gold dust. Talagante 

 is a very populous village, and the women at every hut appear to be 

 potters. The men are soldiers, sailors, carriers, and some few hus- 

 bandmen ; a fine, handsome, that is, well-made race, with faces very 



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