VALPARAISO. 283 



disguise himself in a common dress, and, like the caliph Haroun 

 Alraschid, to mingle in the coffee-houses, and in the gossipping par- 

 ties at the shop doors; that he often heard himself spoken of; and 

 gave me to understand, that he had found that the people were now 

 happy enough to do without him ; and said that, after the active life 

 he had led, he began to wish for rest ; that he had withdrawn from 

 public life, satisfied that his part was accomplished, and that he had 

 only brought with him the flag of Pizarro, the banner under which 

 the empire of the Incas had been .conquered, and which had been 

 displayed in every war, not only those between the Spaniards and 

 Peruvians, but those of the rival Spanish chiefs. " Its possession" 

 said he, " has always been considered the mark of power and authority ; 

 I have it now ;" and he drew himself up to his full height, and 

 looked round him with a most imperial air. Nothing so character- 

 istic as this passed during the whole four hours the Protector 

 remained with me. It was the only moment in which he was him- 

 self. The rest was partly an habitual talking on all subjects, to 

 dazzle the less understanding ; and partly the impatience to be first, 

 even in common conversation, which his long habit of command 

 has given him. I pass over the compliments he paid me, somewhat 

 too profusely for the occasion ; but of such we may say, as Johnson 

 did of affectation, that they are excusable, because they proceed from 

 the laudable desire of pleasing. Indeed, his whole manner was most 

 courteous : I could not but observe, that his movements as well as his 

 person are graceful ; and I can well believe what I have heard, that 

 in a ball-room he has few superiors. Of the other persons present, 

 Colonel d'Albe and the ladies only volunteered a few words. It was 

 with difficulty that, in my endeavours to be polite to all, I forced a 

 syllable now and then from the other gentlemen. They seemed as 

 if afraid to commit themselves ; so at length I left them alone, and 

 the whole discourse soon fell into the Protector's hands. 



Upon the whole, the visit of this evening has not impressed me 

 much in favour of San Martin. His views are narrow, and I think 

 selfish. His philosophy, as he calls it, and his religion, are upon 



o o 2 



