QUINTERO. 303 



sometimes a loose shirt and looser trousers, nankeen slippers, a 

 black fur cap, and a sash, form the whole of his habiliments ; at 

 other times, wide cossack trousers, a blue jacket, real gold buttons, 

 a small pair of epaulettes, and a military cap, and the sash tight round 

 his waist, adorn him ; — rarely does he condescend to wear a neck- 

 cloth, even when the rest of his dress is in conformity with common 

 usage ; but when in full costume, his thin pale personage, and eye 

 with an outward cast in it, are set off by a full suit of black, with 

 shiny silk breeches that look like constitutional calamanco (v. Re- 

 jected Addresses), enormous bunches of ribbon at the knees, and buckles 

 in his shoes. I never could help laughing when I saw him in this 

 stiff dress, forming so complete a contrast with the description he 

 gives of his costume while, during the early period of the revolution, 

 he was governor at Esmeraldas ; an honour which, I can well believe, 

 was forced on him. Then, his body was painted, his head adorned 

 with feathers, and his clothing as light as that of any wild Indian. 



He was dressed now in middle costume, to do the honours of 

 Quintero ; and most politely he did them to Mrs. Miers and me, and 

 most kindly to Glennie. After dinner we engaged him to tell us 

 various parts of his adventures ; and were vulgar enough to prefer his 

 account of the earthquake he experienced at the Baranca, when the 

 dismayed inhabitants fled to the hills, and expected every moment to 

 see their ruined town swallowed up, as Callao had been in 1747. * 

 After the earthquake, he told us of his visits to tremendous volcanoes, 

 and said, that he had himself descended lower into the crater of 



* The destruction of Callao was the most perfect and terrible that can be conceived : 

 no more than one of all the inhabitants escaping, and he by a providence the most singular 

 and extraordinary imaginable. This man was on the fort that overlooked the harbour, 

 going to strike the flag, when he perceived the sea to retire to a considerable distance ; 

 and then, swelling mountains high, it returned with great violence. The inhabitants ran 

 from their houses in great terror and confusion ; he heard a cry of miserere rise from all 

 parts of the city, and immediately all was silent. The sea had entirely overwhelmed this 

 city, and buried it for ever in his bosom ; but the same wave which had destroyed this 

 city drove a little boat by the place where the man stood, into which he threw himself and 

 was saved. 



Burke's Account of the European Settlers in America. 



