342 BIRDS OF THE WEST OF SCOTLAND. 



tourist. I have, it need not be denied, experienced the force of 

 all these considerations, having journeyed from north to south, and 

 from one side to the other of the entire group; in the dead of 

 night, against a westerly gale and floods of rain, and under the 

 burning blaze of a July sun; in the full enjoyment of the calm 

 delights of autumn, when the blue lakes were studded with a 

 thousand water lilies, and in less pleasurable moments, about 

 which the least said would certainly be soonest mended. I re- 

 collect some years ago experiencing a somewhat rough passage of 

 three days and nights to Lochmaddy, during which but little 

 bodily rest could be obtained, and finding on my arrival that in 

 order to save a delay of some hours I should be compelled, instead 

 of enjoying a night's sleep at the inn, to face the darkness and 

 travel twenty miles southwards. On the road I found myself 

 exposed to a succession of showers of rain like split peas, 

 which even at this distance of time force the conviction 

 upon me that 'the most amiable temper could not long survive 

 the full blast of a Hebridean storm. " Does it always rain in this 

 furious fashion?" I asked of the guide who accompanied me. "Oh 

 no, sir," he promptly answered, " it was warse yesterday." * On 

 we travelled, and as we neared the ford three miles in breadth 

 which separated the islands of North Uist and Benbecula, we 

 found a comparatively clear track indicated by stone beacons, just 

 becoming visible in the morning light. About half way across, 

 where the sand was dry and firm, we came upon a large flock of 

 Grey-lags resting themselves. There were altogether from eighty 

 to a hundred birds, and they took but little notice of us as we 

 wheeled round a rocky point in full view of the assemblage. 

 Wishing to know how near we could approach without exciting 

 their suspicions, we diverged from our course, and bore noiselessly 

 down upon them, the little Highland pony pricking his ears in 

 wonderment at the apparent obstruction of stones in the way; and 

 when at last the gander in chief sounded his warning and rose, 

 followed by the entire gang, we were near enough to tempt me 

 to take from my pocket a lump of granite, which I had picked up 

 as a cabinet specimen, and hurl it into their midst. " Did you 



* Dry humour like this deserved full recompense at the nearest licensed 

 house of shelter, but in reply to my inquiries, Allan, to his credit, assured me 

 it was thirteen miles distant. Many gillies would have declared it to be but 

 wan! 



