AMONG SCHOOL GARDENS 



If fresh, it may be turned in in less quantity and 

 the land allowed to lie unplanted for some time, 

 or it may be heaped in piles, wet down and 

 allowed to decompose for several weeks. In 

 warm weather such piles should not be left to 

 breed flies, and they should at all times be mixed 

 with soil to prevent the escape into the air of 

 nitrogenous gases from the decomposing nitrogen 

 compounds. Fresh manure will burn out seeds 

 and scorch plants. 



Land is better with a so-called cover crop of 

 some sort, often winter rye, which in the spring 

 may be turned in early as green manure. After 

 a little opportunity for it to decompose, the ground 

 may be ploughed or spaded and harrowed (spring 

 tooth harrow), raked, and so put in order for the 

 laying out and planting of the garden. Where a 

 grass sod exists, it must be disc-harrowed in both 

 directions and cut again and again before being 

 ploughed in. If the school garden is not decided 

 upon until spring, the land must be fertilized,* 

 ploughed or spaded, and allowed to lie open a few 

 days to air and sun before planting. 



In respect to the suitability of a soil for cultiva- 



* Commercial fertilizer for school gardens on medium light garden 

 soil may be figured at i pint per 5 x lo feet plot or 100 pounds per 

 100 such plots, provided it is an "all round fertilizer". Such a one 

 would carry 60 per cent bone meal or dust (or 30 pounds superphos- 

 phate), 20 pounds nitrate of soda, 20 pounds muriate of potash. If 

 fertilizer of one constituent only is used, bone meal is probably 

 preferable. Pulverized sheep manure is an all round fertilizer and 

 safer to use since it will not burn rootlets or many kinds of seed. 



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