92 The Rose Garden. 



during Summer, if well ripened, usually produces the most refined flowers, that we 

 may make the best of the materials beneath our hand ; for it does sometimes happen 

 that we may prune to the Summer's growth with advantage to the shape of the tree, 

 and it is often a matter of indifference whether we do so or not. 



With these remarks on Pruning in general, we proceed to consider it in its special 

 application under the following heads, as applied to Standards and Dwarfs indis- 

 criminately : i. Long Pruning, suited to varieties of vigorous growth. 2. Close 

 Pruning, suited to kinds of small growth. 



i. LONG PRUNING. This must be applied to the strongest growers : such are the 

 greater part of the Hybrid Chinese, the vigorous in the groups Moss, Damask, Hybrid 

 Perpetual, Noisette, Bourbon, and Tea-scented, which form large heads of rather loose 

 but not always inelegant growth. 



If we remove many shoots from a strong-growing Rose, and shorten the remaining 

 shoots in very closely, the result, as previously stated, will be a vigorous growth, but 

 few or no flowers ; and the shoots may be developed so grossly as to destroy the 

 balance of the tree, and render the flowering for the subsequent year partial or void. 

 This is more to be feared when dealing with Summer Roses and established plants 

 than with the Autumnal or newly planted ones. To what endless disappointment 

 have those fine old Roses, Brennus, Chenedole, and the like, given rise from not blooming 

 freely. I have heard them branded as shy, bad bloomers, not worthy of place in any 

 garden. " Grow they do," says the cultivator, " and that most vigorously, but refuse 

 to shadow forth a single blossom." Now, we would ask Should the blame, if blame 

 there be, be attached to the varieties ? Is it natural for them not to fiower ? Or does 

 this state of things arise from the system of cultivation ? We sometimes see them 

 produce abundance of flowers, and pronounce them perfect ; then surely the former is 

 not the case. They, and numerous others of like habit vigorous growers require 

 long pruning ; that is, a sufficient portion of the shoots should be cut away at their 

 base, which is called thinning-out, to allow a free admission of air and light into the 

 heart of the tree, then the shoots which remain after thinning should be left long. If 

 they are cut close the remaining eyes are developed as wood-shoots and not as flower- 

 shoots, and this is the cause of their not blooming. 



The treatment of plants from the bud will be alluded to elsewhere (see Budding), 

 and as few comparatively have to deal with them in this early stage I shall commence 

 here with one-year budded plants, such as are usually purchased at the grounds of the 

 Rose-growers. Of such Fig. 14 is a representation. Let us look closely at it, and 

 while doing so bear in mind that it is a young plant. Now what is the object of 

 paramount importance this year'? Let us assume the first effort to be to establish the 

 plant, and to put it in a right course of formation. With this end in view we prune 

 more closely the first year after transplanting than at any subsequent period. Let us 

 suppose the specimen before us required to take the shape of a half-oval. What is 



