Long Pruning. 97 



single lines are not in this instance all removed because disadvantageotisly situated! 

 some are thin, weakly, and indifferently ripened, wholly unfitted to remain. If such 

 exist in a favourable position, it must be an extreme case to justify us in leaving them 

 Rather would we go a little out of the way to secure a good sound hard shoot, as such 

 offers a better chance of perfecting our plan. Be it observed, the shoots left after 

 thinning are shortened in closer here than in Fig. 14. This tree looks a complete 

 stump, and, as a Summer Rose, will probably not bloom the first year. But supposing 

 it to be an Autumnal, it will then assuredly bloom the first Autumn, and most probably 

 during summer. 



Fig. 1 8 represents a tree two years older, as it appears after being pruned. Here 

 as in long pruning, we see the addition of branches has been great, and we thin out 



Fig. 19 CLOSE PRUNING, Complete. 



in autumn the shoots shown by the single lines, and shorten the others in spring as 

 before. This we do on the supposition that it is an excitable kind ; if not so, we 

 complete the operation at once by shortening in Autumn. 



Fig. 19 shows a full-grown plant to which close pruning has been applied. 



Most persons prefer plants budded in two places ; we have therefore given ex- 

 amples of such. For my own part I like a plant with a single bud best. It is 

 enough for every purpose, and the head is more easily fashioned. Fig. 17 is an 

 example of such ; Figs. 14 and 18 have each two buds, and to know how to prune a 

 plant properly with two buds renders the dealing with a single bud (Fig. 17) extremely 

 simple. 



It would seem well to mention here that a modification of long and close pruning, 

 which we call moderate pruning, is necessary for certain varieties. Practice alone 

 can inform us correctly which they are ; and we give the result of our practice with 



