Pruning The Weeping Rose. 103 



Fig. 24 gives a fair specimen of one of these the first year after budding. As with 

 Pillar and Climbing, so with Weeping Roses, the shoots may be cut in closely the 

 first time of pruning, to induce a vigorous growth, or we may cut out at the base the 

 shoots shown by the single lines, and shorten the others to the dark shadowing. 

 Hence, new shoots push vigorously, and the habit of the variety being pendulous, the 

 shoots soon reach the ground. 



Fig. 25 shows the growth of a tree the second year after it has been pruned with 

 the view of forming a Weeping Rose. We continue the operation. We here find it 

 advisable to shorten closer a a, shoots which have shown a tendency to rise. In the 

 next place, we cut out the shoots shown by the single lines, and shorten the others a 

 few inches only. From their drooping position the flow of the sap is equalised, and 



Fig. 25 WEEPING ROSE, Stage 2. 



the eyes will break regularly nearly their whole length. Flowers will occasionally be 

 produced from them, and the following year these short bloom-bearing branches may 

 be spurred ; that is, pruned to about two eyes. Henceforth there is but little difficulty 

 in bringing the tree to perfection : the main shoots should not be shortened till they 

 reach the ground ; prune the lateral shoots only ; when flowers will be produced all 

 along the branches from the head of the tree to the ground, forming a beautiful half- 

 globe one mass of flower. 



About the second or third year it is well to attach a hoop to the heads of the 

 Weeping Rose, as shown in Fig. 26, to keep the branches free from injury by the 

 action of the wind, and to assist in arranging them properly. I have sometimes seen 

 wire- work, in the form of an umbrella, placed under the head of a tree intended to be 

 trained as a Weeper. The shoots are drawn through this and tied down, and thus a 



