Roses in Pots. 137 



advanced in our Chapter on Pruning. We now shorten the branches at the points 

 where the lines intersect, and by continuing to practice disbudding we obtain a 

 handsome and well-flowered plant the following summer. 



After it is pruned, the shoots should be staked out at as great distances as possible ; 

 those that are left long ought to be made to lie almost horizontal, by bending them 

 down, that the buds may be induced to break regularly from their summit to the base. 

 Great care is required in this operation, as the wood of some kinds is extremely brittle. 

 If, however, the long shoots be allowed to maintain an upright position, the probability 

 is that two or three buds only at their top will break, which by their exuberant 

 growth keep the lower eyes dormant, and hence results a loose and ill-regulated 

 plant. But it is not necessary to keep them long bent ; for so soon as the eyes have 

 burst, the shoots may be tied up again. With regard to training, each cultivator will 

 likely acquire a plan of his own. But of this hereafter. 



WATERING should be carefully attended to throughout the growing season. The 

 quantity to be given must depend on the state of the plants, the weather, and the 

 porosity of the soil. As a general rule, Roses require but little water during Autumn 

 and Winter. In spring, when the buds first break, occasional syringings are of infinite 

 service. As the plants advance in growth, thereby acquiring a greater surface of 

 foliage, and as the sun gains greater power, the quantity of water should be increased ; 

 and when in full leaf, and throughout the blooming and growing season, an abundance 

 should be given. In making these remarks, we are supposing the water to have free 

 egress through the rubble at the bottom of the pots, a condition essential for the health 

 and perfect growth of the plants. 



Manure-water is beneficial. The use of it imparts a freshness and dark green hue 

 to the foliage, and increases the vigour of the plants. It should not, however, be given 

 too frequently, nor in too concentrated a form. If guano is used, an ounce to a gallon 

 of water is sufficient. It is well to watch the effects of the dose given, to guard against 

 an overgrowth, and regulate the supply accordingly. Perhaps the plants cannot grow 

 too vigorously, provided the wood can be well ripened before winter. There is the 

 point. But as we cannot ensure a sunny Autumn, which is necessary for the perfect- 

 ing of strong shoots, a moderate growth is safer. Camphor- water, an eminent Rose 

 Amateur once advised me, from his own experience, to try ; but I am unable to report 

 any satisfactory results. It is said to add new brilliancy to the flowers. Certainly it 

 is a safe application, and no injurious influences are likely to arise from its use. 



In addition to our painstaking to promote the growth of our plants, we have to 

 guard against enemies and diseases. The Rose-grub, which is most prevalent early 

 in the season, requires close watching, and should be destroyed by hand-picking. I 

 have picked a score off a single pot-plant. Wherever a curled leaf or shoot without 

 a growing point meets the eye this destructive insect will be found. Some mischief 

 has perhaps been done, for it is seldom that he can be discovered except by the effects 



