178 The Rose Garden. 



junction for two or three months ; and that which covers the summits of the stock and 

 scion may remain till it naturally falls away. 



In reference to grafting Standard Roses, as they are invariably done in the open 

 air, March is the best season. As fine and mild a day as March is likely to afford 

 should be chosen. Grafting requires at all times an ordinary share of patience and 

 perseverance ; and if the practitioner be not possessed of more than an ordinary 

 share, he had better not attempt it out-of-doors on a true March day ; for to be 

 kept in one position five minutes at a time, with a cold wind whistling round one's 

 ears, is a trial of no common order. What a contrast between this and budding 

 in a July day ! In grafting Standard Roses the stock is, of course, considerably 

 larger than the scion, and Cleft-Grafting is the mode I have pursued with the greatest 

 success. 



In grafted plants, as in budded ones, if the buds or eyes be allowed their natural 

 course they break and form long single shoots. If these are stopped so soon as they 

 have three or four good healthy leaves, a bud from the axil of each leaf will be 

 developed, and a round bushy plant is formed. 



5. LAYERS. This mode of propagating is not so commonly resorted to as the 

 others. Dwarf or Bush Roses only are commonly layered. It is first necessary to dig 

 with a fork for some space around the bush, breaking the soil quite fine, mixing in a 

 little pulverized manure and sand in the operation. The instruments wanted are a 

 knife, a flat trowel, and some pegs. All things being ready, select some of the best 

 shoots, stripping off a few of the leaves at a distance varying from six inches to two 

 feet from the point of the shoot a, a (Fig. 57). Now, take the shoot in the left hand, 

 and the knife in the right ; insert the latter just beyond an eye b, on the upper 

 side of the shoot, and pass it upwards steadily and evenly, cutting about half through 

 the shoot, and for an inch in length. This done, drop the knife and take the trowel. 

 With the left hand bend the shoot close to the ground, that you may see the best 

 spot in which to bury it, drive the trowel into the ground, working it backwards 

 and forwards till a good opening is made, throw a little sand in the bottom of the 

 opening and press the shoot into it, pegging it down two or three inches under the 

 soil. It is well to twist the shoot a little after the cut is made, so that the end 

 of the tongue as it is technically termed (t)} from which the roots will be emitted, 

 may take a downward direction. Having made all secure, close in the soil, press- 

 ing it firmly round about the layer. It is a good plan to give each layer a small 

 stick (c] to keep it from being agitated by the motion of the wind. As to the 

 length of the shoot that should remain above ground, much will depend on the 

 state of the wood. We should make the cut or tongue in wood that is young, yet 

 firm. The larger the layer, of course the larger will be the plant, though not always 

 the better rooted ; the contrary is often the case. June, July, and August are the 

 months for layering ; and should the weather continue dry, the layers should be 



