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Isaac Hicks & Son, Westbury Station, N. Y. TLbergreens 



dry, sandy soil and heavy damp soil, on wind-swept hill and sheltered valley or open plain. We occasionally 

 give away some of these to customers who are willing to test them. Let us know if you are interested in this. 

 Time to Plant. Small evergreens, 3 inches to 3 feet high, we plant without balls of earth all the year, 

 excepting from October to March. In June and July the new growth is soft but they live the same as cab- 

 bage. Medium-sized evergreens, 3 to 8 feet high, with balls of earth, can be planted all the year. If planted 

 between October and February 20, it is best to mulch the roots to keep out frost, and to protect the tops 

 from wind. Large evergreens, 8 to 40 feet high, with balls of earth, we move all the year with good results. 

 "What is the best time to plant?" is usually the first question. It should be the last. What are my needs 

 and what class of trees will do? What species and geographical variety of the species will best fit the soil 

 and climate? Who has it in the sizes wanted at a fair price? What is the quality of roots and top? Will 

 they be dug and delivered with good roots? What are the seasons for planting? 



Arborvitae Thuya 



American. Thuya occidentalis. Before the days 

 of the California Privet, this was the most popular 

 hedge plant. It stands shearing well and makes a 

 dense screen. Its popularity was due to the 

 abundant supply and the rapidity with which 

 it could be grown from cuttings. 



One of the most eminent and the first landscape 

 gardener in this country, A. J. Downing, says, 

 "The only fault of this tree as an evergreen is 

 the comparatively dingy green hue of its foliage 

 in winter. But, to compensate for this, it is re- 

 markably fresh-looking in its spring, summer and 

 autumn tints, appearing well at those seasons 

 with the bright verdure of deciduous trees." 



It sometimes winter-kills on Long Island or 

 gets open and ragged. Therefore, for extensive 

 planting, the Red Cedar and the hardiest varie- 

 ties of Pines and Spruces are preferable. 



Siberian. T. occidentalis, var. Wareana; syn., 

 T ' . Sibirica. This is darker green and more dense 

 in growth than the American. It forms a broader 

 pyramid and is slower in growth. 



We have uniform pyramids accurately sheared, 

 which are suitable for formal gardens and vases. 

 They are also useful for making evergreen groups, 

 especially those which are to be kept below a 

 certain height. 



Pyramidal. T. occidentalis, var. pyramidalis. This 

 forms a dark green shaft resembling the young 

 plants of Red Cedar. It will make a column 10 

 feet high and 2 feet wide and is, therefore, valu- 

 able in formal gardens. 



Booth's. T. occidentalis, var. Boothi. There are 

 many places where a dense, globular-formed 

 evergreen that will stay about 3 feet high is 

 needed, and the Booth's Arborvitae will fill that 

 requirement excellently. 



Dwarf. T. occidentalis, var. globosa. As a substitute 

 for Box edging this is useful. It is dense in texture 

 and can be used either as garden edging or in 

 carpet-bedding with Retinosporas and other 

 evergreens. It can be kept trimmed to I or 2 

 feet in height. 



Golden, or George Peabody. T ' . occidentalis, var. 

 lutea. A bright golden yellow all the year. Useful 

 in evergreen beds to give variety and to relieve the 

 somberness of the green. It is equally as good as 

 the Retinospora plumosa aurea. 



Chinese. T. orientalis. A pyramidal tree with 

 branches set edgewise. Of value for hedges, par- 

 ticularly in the South. These cheap little plants 

 can be used for bordering garden paths. The 

 winter color is a rich bronze. 



Standish. T. Japonica; syn., Thuyopsis Stand iskii. 

 A rapid-growing species, resembling the American, 

 and useful for hedges. 



Laundry paddock of Red Cedar planted by us. A windbreak of this kind prevents tearing of the laundry. Residence 



of Mr. Wm. Baldwin, Garden City 



