;VJ THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. 



able to the same rules in shoots of different growths; pruning some 

 to about eight, ten, or twelve inches, others to fifteen or eighteen 

 inches long, or more, according to their strength and situation in 

 different parts of the tree, as well as in some cases the apparent 

 situation of the blossom-buds, in being placed higher or lower on 

 the respective shoots selected for bearers, as before observed. 



But when any trees are of very vigorous growth in their general 

 shoots, they must be shortened but moderately; or some shoots 

 very little, in which some of the less vigorous may be cut to about 

 twelve or fifteen inches; but in stronger shoots prune oft' only about 

 one-third or fourth of their length, or some of the most luxuriant 

 left mostly at their full length; for if the strong shoots of a gene- 

 rally vigorous tree were to be much shortened, it would occasion 

 their shooting still more luxuriantly to rampant unfruitful wood; 

 therefore the vigorous shoots should be very moderately shortened; 

 and where they are general in a tree, it is advisable both to leave 

 them closer and of much greater length than the shoots in mode- 

 rate growing trees, that the exuberance of sap may be expended in 

 the larger extent and expansion of wood, and the tree thereby in 

 time become a more moderate shooter and a good bearer- 

 Observe, however, in shortening the shoots in general, both in 

 trees of moderate, middling, and strong growth, that in those shoots 

 adapted for principal bearers the ensuing season, should be careful 

 not to cut away too low, or below all or most of the blossom-buds, 

 or parts where they are expected to advance, being generally dis- 

 tinguishable from the leaf or shoot-buds by their round, plump, 

 swelling appearance, the others being oblong, narrow, and flattish; 

 and therefore should give proper attention to shorten accordingly 

 in the shoots were the fruit-buds are apparent. 



Likewise observe, that in shortening the bearing shoots or others 

 of those trees, they should generally, where practicable, be cut to 

 an eye or wood-but that is likely to produce a shoot for a leader 

 the ensuing season; the shoot-bud-eyes being distinguishable from 

 the fruit or blossom-buds by their longer, flattish form; the others 

 being roundish, swelling, and turgid, or may also, occasionally, 

 prune to an eye having one or two blossom-buds, as frequently, 

 from the same eye, shoot-buds are also formed on one side of the 

 single or between the two twin blossom-buds aforesaid, and from 

 which a good leading shoot will be most likely produced, which is 

 necessary to the welfare of the fruit; for where a leading shoot is 

 produced at or near the extremity of a bearing branch, it draws 

 nourishment to the fruit more eifectually. 



After having pruned one tree, let it be directly nailed or bound 

 as you go on, observing to lay in the branches and shoots horizon- 

 tally, perfectly straight, and parallel to each other at the above 

 mentioned distances, nailing them all close to the wall, or tying 

 them to the trellis in a neat manner. 



Prune Gooseberry and Currant Trees. 



Gooseberries and currants bear both on the young one or two 

 years' wood, and upon the several years' branches, generally upon 



