March] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 215 



trees; as for instance, shoots of about two feet may be cut to ten, 

 twelve, or fifteen inches, or a little longer in strong growths; for 

 the strongest shoots should always be left the longest; and those 

 about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches pruned to six, eight, ten, 

 or twelve inches in length; and so in proportion to the different 

 lengths and degrees of strength, and particular situation of the 

 respective shoots. See January, &c. 



By this practice each of these shoots will probably produce two, 

 three, or four new shoots the succeeding summer, so that by Octo- 

 ber each young tree, so treated, will be furnished with from twelve 

 or fifteen to eighteen or twenty shoots, or more. 



The trees may then be pruned according to the method directed 

 for the older trees of that sort, observing still to shorten the young 

 shoots, but in such a manner as they may both produce fruit and 

 a supply of young wood, as in the full bearing trees aforesaid; that 

 is, generally to prune the weaker shoots about one-half, the stronger 

 ones prune about a third or fourth of their length, according to 

 strength and where situated, and the situation of the blossom and 

 wood-buds on the respective shoots; then nail them straight and 

 close to the walls, or tie them to the espalier with willow twigs, &c. 

 three or four to five or six inches asunder. — See Fruit Garden in 

 January, &c. 



Pruning and training young Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry Trees 

 for Espaliers and Walls. 



Any young dwarf apples, pears, plums, and cherry trees, lately 

 planted against walls or espaliers, &c. or still remaining in the 

 nursery with their first shoots, of only a year or two old entire, 

 should now be pruned down to a few eyes that they may put out 

 some good shoots near the ground, to furnish the bottom of the 

 wall or espalier therewith. 



If the heads of these trees are but one year's growth from the 

 bud or graft, let them be shortened to four or five eyes; observing 

 to do it just as they begin to form buds for shooting. 



Suppose they are two years from the bud or graft, and the first 

 shoots were cut down, as above, last spring; let the shoots which 

 were produced from them the last summer be also shortened now 

 to six, eight, or ten inches. 



The same rule holds good with these at first training as men- 

 tioned for the apricots and peaches; for it is on shortening properly 

 the first and second year's shoots, from the budding and grafting, 

 that the whole success depends for forming a useful and handsome 

 tree; as when a young wall or espalier tree is well furnished with 

 branches near the ground, these will readily supply you with more, 

 in their turn, to furnish the wall or espalier upwards. 



But in the common course of pruning apples, pears, plums, and 

 cherries, their shoots and branches are not to be shortened; for after 

 the young trees are furnished with a proper supply of branches 

 below, their shoots must then be trained to the wall at full length, 

 only shortening particular shoots when more wood may be required 



