March. J THE NURSERY. 265 



Juniper and Bed Cedar Hedges. 



Juniper and red cedar make good garden hedges, particularly the 

 former, and are very proper for affording shelter to such quarters 

 of the garden or nursery as are set apart for the raising of tender 

 plants in; both may be propagated abundantly from seeds, which 

 do not vegetate till the second spring after ripening, consequently 

 they must be prepared as directed for haws, and when sown, should 

 not be covered more than a quarter of an inch deep; they may 

 remain in the seed-bed for two years, if not too thick, and then 

 planted into nursery rows; or the largest may be taken up when 

 a year old, and planted therein, provided that they have grown 

 freely. The juniper maybe raised by cuttings, planted in I shady 

 border towards the latter end of this month. 



Yew and Privet Hedges. 



Yew and privet make neat garden hedges; they are both raised 

 from seeds and cuttings, the latter planted in March, and the seeds 

 of each are to be treated as directed for haws, not vegetating the 

 first spring after ripening. 



Pyracantha or Evergreen-Thorn Hedges. 



The Mespilis Pyracantha, or evergreen-thorn, will make a tole- 

 rably good hedge; it is propagated by seed, which will not vegetate 

 till the second spring after ripening, and must be treated accord- 

 ingly- 



Rose and Sweet-Briar Hedges. 



"Wild roses and sweet-briar are sometimes used for hedges, and 

 may either be propagated by suckers, layers or seeds. The best 

 way to cultivate them for hedges is by seed, which must be gathered 

 in autumn when ripe, and preserved as directed for haws, till the 

 spring following twelve months, and then sown. 



Elder, Willow, and Slder Hedges. 



The elder tree is sometimes used for hedges, especially when a 

 fence is wanted as soon as possible, being of a more speedy growth 

 than any other kind commonly used for that purpose, though not 

 the most effectual nor beautiful. However, an immediate fence 

 may be made of it, by planting large truncheons or cuttings of the 

 straightest upright shoots and branches from two or three, to six 

 feet long, planted either upright, a foot asunder, and wattled along 

 the top to preserve them firm and even; or by planting them 

 slanting across one another, chequerwise, forming a sort of lattice 

 work, which is the most elfectual method. In either way <>l plant- 

 ing, do not point and drive them in, as is commonly done, but make 

 holes for their reception, twelve or fifteen inches deep, with a crow- 

 bar, then insert their ends, and make the earth fast about them: 

 2K 



