284 THE NURSERY. [March. 



American public. Its introduction marks a new era in the silk 

 history of the United States. It lias already become so rapidly 

 and extensively known that little more need be said upon it here 

 than to remark that it differs from the other varieties, particularly 

 from the white or Italian mulberry, in the luxuriance with which 

 it sends up its "many stalks;" the increased size of the leaf, and 

 the small portion of refuse left by the worms in feeding. It also 

 is distinguished by its foliage, furnishing food for the worms to 

 considerable extent during the first season of its growth, and in 

 great abundance after the second and third year. The product 

 from the seed is so uncertain, and the propagation by layers or 

 cuttings so easy that the preference is invariably given to the latter 

 mode of cultivation. A good rich soil, aided by compost or well 

 fermented manure, should be chosen when the planting is intended 

 simply for multiplying the trees, though for feeding the worms the 

 preference is decidedly in favour of a foliage grown on a dry, 

 sandy or gravelly loam, the latter furnishing silk of a better quality, 

 with less risk of endangering the life of the worm. As to the par- 

 ticular mode of cultivation it is generally conceded to be as simple 

 as that of corn. The ground should be ploughed in the fall, and 

 again in the spring. 



The "Silk Worm," a valuable periodical, published by Mr. 

 Thomas C. Clarke, of this city, and devoted to the advancement 

 of this rapidly increasing business, furnishes the following direc- 

 tions for planting, which we find corroborated by other writers on 

 this subject, as well as by practical cultivators. 



"There are four methods of planting these trees. 1st, by budding 

 under glass; 2nd, by cuttings laid out at the usual season; 3d, by- 

 layers of whole trees; and 4th, by layers of sections or parts of 

 trees. 



"The cuttings should always be made at least with one bud, and 

 that within a quarter to half an inch of the end intended to be next 

 the surface. When they are budded, there should be a box made 

 about two feet on the back and eighteen inches in front, covered 

 with glass lids with hinges of iron or leather, so that they may be 

 aired. This box should be filled two-thirds full with rich mould, 

 or mould enriched with well rotted manure. The cuttings should 

 be inserted in this in a sloping direction at an angle of 45°, the 

 upper end towards the north, the bud below the surface halt an 

 inch, and the whole box towards the south. The cuttings should 

 be from a quarter to half an inch apart, so that the mould may be 

 all around each cutting. Thev should be placed in this position 

 about the 1st of March, and let' remain to the 15th or 20th of May. 

 The late frosts should be all over when removed, and they should 

 be placed in well prepared soil with a trowel dibble, the soil press- 

 ed well around them, and well watered if the weather be not rainy. 

 The planting of these should, if possible, be done in rainy or at 

 least cloudy weather. 



"The cuttings of the second method should be inserted in the 

 soil without dibble, the upper end to be about one inch under the 

 soil, if the mould be loose, or even with the soil if the mould be 



