Jn.v.J THE NURSERY. 445 



then draw the bud up gently so as to join the upper or cut end of 

 it to the bark of the stalk, where it will most generally first unite. 



Let the parts be then bound with a ligature of bass previously 

 immersed in water to render it pliable and tough, or in want of this, 

 with woollen yarn; beginning below the bottom of the perpendicular 

 slit, and proceeding upwards close around every part, except over 

 the eye or bud, which is to be carefully preserved, and continue it 

 a little above the horizontal cut, not binding it too tight but just 

 sufficient to keep the parts close, exclude the air, sun, and wet, and 

 thereby to promote the junction of the stalk and bud; finish by 

 making the ligature fast. 



2. Although it is universally recommended by every author who 

 has written on the art of gardening, to take the woody part out of 

 the bud, before its insertion into the stalk, as above directed, I find 

 such practice by no means necessary; for if the bud be taken oft* 

 with a less portion of wood than in the former method, and imme- 

 diately inserted as above directed, it will succeed full as well, if not 

 better, and as to expedition, there is no comparison; certainly 

 double the number can be inserted in the same period of time by 

 this method as by the former. It will be found particularly con- 

 venient for the budding of lemons and oranges, and may also be 

 practised at periods in which the first method would be totally un- 

 successful, that is, when the buds are not sufficiently ripe to exist 

 without the young wood, or too much so for the bark to separate 

 freely. This method may be practised when desired at a much 

 earlier period than the former, and also as late in the season as the 

 bark of the stalk will rise freely for the admission of the bud. 



In three weeks or a month after inoculation, you will see which 

 of them have taken by their fresh and plump appearance, and at 

 that time you should loosen the bandages, for if kept on too long 

 they would pinch the stalks and greatly injure, if not destroy the 

 buds. Those that appear shrivelled, black, or decayed, are good 

 for nothing. 



In this dormant state the buds should remain till the March fol- 

 lowing, when the stalks are to be headed down, as directed in the 

 nursery for that month. 



Note. The cuttings should not be taken oft the trees in the mid- 

 dle of the day, if the weather be hot and dry, for at such times they 

 will perspire so fast as soon to leave the buds destitute of moisture; 

 but if you are obliged to fetch them from some distance, as it often 

 happens, you should be provided with a tin case, about twelve 

 inches long, and a cover to the top which must have five or six 

 holes; in this case you should put as much water as will fill it 

 about two inches high, and place your cuttings therein in an up- 

 right position, so that the parts which were cut from the tree may 

 be set in the water, and then fasten down the cover to keep out the 

 air; the holes in the cover will be sufficient to let the perspiration 

 of these branches pass oft*, which, if pent in, would be very hurtful 

 to them; you must also be careful to carry it upright, that the water 

 may not reach to the buds, which would so saturate them as to de- 

 prive them of any attractive force to imbibe the sap of the stalk. 



