514 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Oct. 



certain destruction to them, yet its influence will prevent that 

 intense frost so prevalent in colder aspects; and when the plants 

 at such times are screened from the direct rays of the sun, its 

 reflected heat comforts without injuring them. 



The beds should be made the width of your garden-frames, and 

 the plants set therein up to their leaves in rows about three or four 

 inches distant every way. YVhen thus transplanted they will sur- 

 vive the winter much better than in the seed-beds, for their long 

 stems being buried into the earth, are protected thereby from alter- 

 nate freezing and thawing and the effects of the various changes 

 of weather, than which there is nothing more injurious to tender 

 plants. The stems of these and cauliflower plants, are injured be- 

 fore the foliage, and it is of importance to keep those tender parts 

 in an equal temperature, by which they will be preserved much 

 longer even if in a frozen state than if they were exposed to alter- 

 nate frost and heat. 



Select good plants from the seed-beds and, when planted, give 

 them a gentle watering to settle the earth about their roots, observ- 

 ing not to apply it too hastily lest you wash the earth into their 

 hearts. 



Put on the frames immediately, and also the lights, but the 

 glasses are now to be continued on only four or five days till the 

 plants have taken fresh root; observing during that period to shade 

 the plants with mats or other protection from the mid-day sun; but 

 when they have taken sufficient root the lights are to be taken 

 totally oft' and the plants left fully exposed till the setting in of 

 smart frosts, except in very cold nights or during.the prevalence of 

 cold heavy rains; for it is of considerable moment to have the plants 

 tolerably hardy on the commencement of severe weather. 



But if they happen to be in a backward state you should keep on 

 the glasses every night to encourage their growth. 



When you have not the convenience of glass, you may defend 

 the plants sufficiently in winter by means of boards and mats. 



Or, in the middle and southern states, you may plant some in a 

 warm border to be defended in like manner as before directed for 

 lettuces; and if the winter proves tolerably mild, they may happen 

 to stand it pretty well. But if at any time, particularly towards 

 the end of February or early in March, you expose the plants to a 

 warm sun, while they or the earth in which they stand are in a 

 frozen state, it will inevitably destroy them. 



You should in mild warm weather, when the sun is not powerful, 

 give them an occasional airing, and the oftener this can be done, 

 so that they are covered up again in due time, the better. 



Similar precautions are to be used with plants in frames that are 

 frozen, but such as are not, will be improved by exposing them oc- 

 casionally to as much air and sun as prudence may warrant till 

 planted out finally in March, &c. 



By pursuing this method you will have much earlier and larger 

 cabbages than can be expected from plants sown in the early spring 

 months. 



