568 THE PLEASURE, OR [Nov. 



be supported by the frames surrounding the beds wherein the roots 

 are planted, and it must be taken oft every mild day, while there is 

 no danger of the beds accumulating frost, in order to ventilate and 

 sufficiently air the plants that are up, so that they may neither be 

 drawn too much, the foliage turn yellow, nor the roots become 

 mouldy. But particular care must be taken to place the covering 

 on again, as soon as the day becomes cold and before the beds begin 

 to freeze. The ranunculuses are somewhat more tender than the 

 anemones, and will require a proportional protection. 



Planting various kinds of Bulbous and Tuberous Flower roots. 



You may still continue to plant the various kinds of bulbous and 

 tuberous flower-roots, as directed in page 543, but the earlier in the 

 month that you can get this accomplished the better. 



Transplanting Perennial and Biennial Flower Roots. 



Where omitted in the preceding months you should as early in 

 this as possible divide (where necessary) and transplant the vari- 

 ous kinds of hardy perennial anil biennial fibrous-rooted plants, 

 agreeably to the directions given in pages 501 and 545. 



Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Carnations, Primroses, §-c. 



The pots containing your choice auriculas, polyanthuses, carna- 

 tions and double primroses should, immediately previous to the 

 setting in of hard frost, be plunged to their rims close together in a 

 garden frame, and there defended from heavy rains and severe frost 

 by putting on the glasses and a suitable covering of mats, &.c. occa- 

 sionally, according to the necessity of the case. But observe, that 

 as all these kinds are of a hardy nature, they must be fully exposed 

 to the weather every day that is tolerably mild and dry, and even 

 at night until the frost becomes rather rigorous. However, it will 

 be proper to line the outside of the frame, as directed in page 567, 

 for ranunculuses and anemones, the better to keep out the most 

 severe frosts of the winter; for when properly protected, and not 

 drawn or forced too much, they always flower better than when cut 

 up by severe weather. 



Where there is not the convenience of glasses, mats and boards 

 may be laid over the frame; or, if no frame, the pots may be plunged 

 close together in a raised bed of dry soil or tan in a warm situation, 

 and low arches made of old cask hoops, or the like, erected over 

 them, on which to lav thick mats in wet or frosty weather. But in 

 February, and early in March, while the frost is in the ground, or 

 the leaves in a frozen state, and especially if they had been covered 

 with snow, you must he particular not to expose them to a hot sun, 

 which would be almost certain death to them. 



