The Top of the Andes. 49 



nine o'clock we came out on a narrow, grassy ridge called 

 the Ensillada, or Saddleback, where there were three straw 

 huts, with roofs resting on the ground, and there we break- 

 fasted on locro. Dui-ing our stay the Indians killed a pig, 

 and before the creature was fairly dead dry grass was heap- 

 ed upon it and set on fire. This is the ordinary method of 

 removing the bristles. 



Still ascending, we lose sight of the valley of the Cliim- 

 bo, and find ourselves in a wilderness of crags and treeless 

 mountains clothed with the long, dreary -looking paramo 

 grass called Jpobja. But we are face to face with " the mon- 

 arch of the Andes-," and we shall have its company the rest 

 of the day. The snowy dome is flooded with the gold- 

 en light of heaven; delicate clouds of softest hues float 

 around its breast ; while, far below, its feet are wrapped in 

 the baser mists of earth. We attained the summit of the 

 pass at 11 A.M. All travelers strive to reach it early in the 

 morning, for in the afternoon it is swept by violent winds 

 which render it uncomfortable, if not dangerous. This 

 part of the road is called the " Arenal," from the sand and 

 gravel which cover it. It is about a league in length, and 

 crosses the side of Chimborazo at an elevation of more than 

 fourteen thousand feet. Chimborazo stands on the left of 

 the traveler. How tantalizing its summit ! It appears so 

 easy of access ; and yet many a valiant philosopher, from 

 Humboldt down, has panted for the glory and failed. The 

 depth of the snow and numerous precipices are the chief 

 obstacles ; but the excessively rarefied air is another liin- 

 derance. Even in crossing the Arenal, a native of the low- 

 lands complains of violent headache, a proj)ensity to vomit, 

 and a difiiculty of breathing. The Arenal is often swept 

 by snow-storms ; and history has it that some of the Span- 

 ish conquerors were here frozen to death. The pale ^^ellow 

 gravel is considered by some geologists as the moraine of a 



D 



