RlOB^V^IBA. 153 



the barrenness of the landscape but hedges of century 

 plant, cactus, and wild heliotrope, which border the roads. 

 Wliirlwinds of sand are often seen moving over the plain. 

 The mean tempei-ature is 61°.5. Here exist, w^e can not 

 say thrive, the cities of Riobamba, Ambato, and Tacnnga, 

 already noticed. Eiobamba,* properly Eayobamba, the 

 plain of lightning, was founded at the beginning of this 

 century, or shortly after the destruction of the old city. 

 Excepting the ecclesiastical buildings, the houses are of 

 one story, built of stone plastered wdth mud, sometimes of 

 adobe or bamboo, and the w^indows are grated like those 

 of a prison. As in all Spanish- American towns, the main 

 church fi'onts the great Plaza where the weekly fairs are 

 held. Save on fair-day, the city is lifeless. Nothing is 

 exported to the coast except a few eggs and fow^ls, lard 

 and potatoes. Such is the power of habit, an Indian will 

 take a hen to Bodegas and sell it for four reals (50 cents) 

 when he could get three for it in Riobamba, and six on 

 the road. Another instance of this doffo:ed adherence to 

 custom was related to us by Dr. Taylor : The Indians were 

 accustomed to bring the curate of a certain village a bun- 

 dle of alfalfa every day. A new curate, having no use 

 for so much, ordered them not to bring any more. He 

 was besieged by -Q-ve hundred of his vdld parishioners, and 

 had he not been a powerful man, they would have killed 

 him. They told him they were accustomed to bring the 

 curate that much of alfalfa, and should continue. 



Old Riobamba (Cajabamba) is situated twelve miles to 

 the west. This has been the scene of some of the most 

 terrible paroxysms that ever shook the Andes. In 1797 a 

 part of Mount Cicalfa was thrown down, crushing the city 

 at its foot ; hills arose where valleys existed ; rivers disap- 



* According to Villa-s-icencio, Eio (or Eic) is Qiiichua for road ; baniba is 

 plain. 



