192 The Andes and the Aisiazon. 



natives are constantly slapping their naked sides, eating the 

 little pests as the Papallactans do their lice.* Archidona 

 is the largest village in the Xapo country, containing about 

 five hundred souls. The houses are of split bamboo and 

 palm-thatch, often hid in a plantation of yuca and plan- 

 tain. The central and most important structure is the little 

 church ; its rude belfry, portico, chancel, images, and other 

 attempts at ornament remind us of the fitting words of 

 Mrs. Agassiz, that " there is something touching in the idea 

 that these poor, uneducated people of the forest have cared 

 to build themselves a temple with their own hands, lavish- 

 ing upon it such ideas of beauty and taste as they have, 

 and bringing at least their best to their humble altar." 

 Founded by Davalos in 1560, Archidona has been a mis- 

 sionary station for two hundred years. The people are 

 child-like and docile, but the bishop confessed there was no 

 intellectual advance. • Every morning and evening, at the 

 tinkling of a little bell, all Archidona assembled in the 

 open porch, where the bishop taught them to sing and pray. 

 It was a novel sight to see these children of the forest com- 

 ing out of the woods on all sides and running up to the 

 temple — for these natives, whenever they move, almost in- 

 variably go on a run. The men are tall and slim and of a 

 dark red color, and their legs are bent backward at the 

 knees. The governor was the only portly indi\ddual we 

 saw. The women are short, with high shoulders, and are 

 very timid ; they seldom stand erect, and with the knees 

 bent forward they run sneakingly to church. Their eyes 

 have a characteristic, soft, drooping look. They carry their 

 babes generally on the hip ; not on the back, as in Quito. 

 The men are hatless, shirtless, and shoeless ; their only gar- 



* The Chasuta Indians, Herndon says, eat rausquitoes that they catch on 

 their bodies with the idea of restoring the blood which the insect has ab- 

 stracted. 



