VPOLU. 61 



CHAPTER IV. 



UPOLU—SAMOAN GROUP— (continued). 



(July 5 to 10.) 



Apia Bay — Consul Williams, son of the Martyr of Eranianga — Mischief caused 

 by a Hurricane — Resident Strangers — Baptisms on Board — Sunday at Apia 

 — Catholic Bishop — Protestant Missionary — History of a Bible in the Ellice 

 Islands — Visit of the Great Chief Malietoa — Inconsistent Criticisms— Natives 

 and Whites — Manners and Customs — Ancient Crater — Cascade — Island 

 Products. 



The ' Curat^oa ' weiglied anchor on July 4 at 5 o'clock in tlie 

 afternoon, and steamed out of the bay of Pango-Pango, the 

 channel of which is not more than a third of a mile in 

 width. As soon as the ship got out to sea a gentle breeze 

 sprang up and enabled us to set sail. Towards sunset the 

 mountains and coast of Tutuila assumed so beautiful an 

 appearance that we could not turn our eyes away from 

 them. During the night the breeze so slackened that, with 

 all sail set, we did not make more than from three to four 

 knots an hour, and yet the air w^as agreeably cool. Next 

 day at dawn we got up steam in order to run along the 

 northern coast of Upolu as far as the entrance into the port 

 of Apia. The shore was exceedingly picturesque, with its 

 bends and high lauds gradually sloping towards the sea. 

 The mountains, which at their highest point reach to 4,000 

 feet, were here and there lost in clouds. A cascade fell 



