62 THE CRUISE OF TEE ' CUBAQOA.' 



from tlie heights hke a silver thread ; and in the distance 

 was to be seen a hxrge island, that of Savaii, the dome- 

 shaped summit of which reminded me of the famous 

 Mauna-loa of Hawaii. The whole of Upolu seemed covered 

 with verdure, and well-wooded up to its topmost points. 

 At the entrance of Apia Bay a pilot came off to us in 

 a whale boat ; he was a Yankee of small stature, as dark 

 as a Portuguese ; he appeared to detest the English, having 

 been, as we were afterwards informed, expelled from Savaii, 

 where he had settled, after being fined 1,000 dollars for 

 killing one of the natives. 



A coral reef, of a crescent shape, incloses Apia Bay, 

 which is accessible by a large opening through it. We 

 came to anchor, about 9 o'clock in the morning, in five 

 fathoms. The whole shore of the bay is lined with dwell- 

 ings built under cocoanut trees ; the flags of the English 

 and American consuls, the houses of the whites, the Catholic 

 church, and the huts of tlie natives were distinctly visible 

 to us. The British consul, Mr. Williams, came on board at 

 an early hour in his official costume to pay his respects to 

 the Commodore. This gentleman not only recommends 

 himself by his personal qualities, but lie inspires a peculiar 

 interest as being the son of the celebrated missionary, wlio 

 died a martyr's death under the blows of the savages of Era- 

 manga. On leaving the ship he received, according to custom, 

 a salute of seven guns. We speedily rejoined him on shore, 

 where our first visit was to him. He received us in the midst 

 of his family in a large house, surrounded by a verandah, 



