Forcing Strawberries under Glass. 147 



forcing are those of a low, stocky growth, bearing perfect flowers and sweet 

 or high-flavored berries. I should say the Triomphe de Gand was the 

 best, and I observe that it and the La Constante, which it closely resem- 

 bles, are highly recommended abroad. The bush Alpines are said to do 

 finely, and I should think the Black Defiance would answer well. Mr. 

 Henderson speaks highly of the Champion, which, however, must be 

 grown with a perfect- flowered kind, since it is a pistillate. From the 

 parent row, guide the first runners so that they will take root in the pots. 

 Let each runner form but a single, strong plant, which it will do in about 

 two weeks, filling the pot with roots. Then these plants, with their 

 accompanying balls of earth interlaced with roots, are ready to be shifted 

 into pots of from six to eight inches in diameter, which also should be filled 

 with the compost already described. 



These larger pots should have three or four pieces of broken pottery 

 in the bottom for drainage. One plant to each pot is sufficient, and the 

 soil should be pressed firmly about the roots. The methods of growers 

 now differ somewhat, but all agree in seeking to promote a continuous and 

 healthy growth. It may be necessary to place the pots in a half-shady 

 position for a few days, till the effects of shifting are over, and the roots 

 have taken hold of the new soil. Then they should stand in an open, airy 

 position, close together, where they can receive daily attention. Some 

 recommend that they stand on boards, flagging or bricks, or a layer of coal 

 ashes, since earth-worms are thus kept out ; others sink them in cold 

 frames, where they can be protected somewhat from excessive heat and 

 drenching storms ; while others, still, sink the pots in the open ground, 

 where it is convenient to care for and water them. It is obvious that 

 moisture must be steadily and continuously maintained, and the plants be 

 made to do their best until about the first of October. After this they 

 should be watered very sparingly, barely kept moist, since it is now our 

 aim to ripen the foliage and roots and induce a season of rest. At the same 

 time, they should not be permitted to dry out. About the first of Novem- 

 ber, an old hot-bed pit can be filled with dry leaves and the pots plunged 

 in them, close together, up to their rims, and, as the season grows colder, 

 the tops can be covered, so as to prevent the earth in the pots from 

 freezing. The top of the pit can be covered with boards to keep out the 

 wet, but not so tightly as to exclude the air. Our aim is to keep the 

 plants dormant, and yet a little above freezing, and barely moist enough 

 to prevent the slightest shriveling. Since it requires from ten to fourteen 

 weeks to mature the fruit under glass, it would be well to subject some of 

 the plants to heat early in October, so as to have ripe berries at the 



