Choice and Preparation of Soil. 2 1 1 



the surface in the fall or early spring, and gradually worked in by cultiva- 

 tion. Thus used, their light heating qualities will do no harm, and they 

 will keep the surface mellow and, therefore, moist. 



The shadowy, Northern haunts of the wild currant also suggest 

 that it will falter and fail under the Southern sun ; and this is true. 

 As we pass down through the Middle States, we find it difficult to make 

 thrive even the hardy White and Red Dutch varieties, and a point is at 

 last reached when the bushes lose their leaves in the hot season, and die. 

 From the latitude of New York south, therefore, increasing effort should be 

 made to supply the currants' constitutional need, by giving partial shade 

 among pear or widely set apple trees, or, better still, by planting on the 

 northern side of fences, buildings, etc. By giving a cool, half-shady 

 exposure in moist land, the culture of the currant can be extended far to 

 the south, especially in the high mountain regions. Even well to the 

 north it is unprofitable when grown on light, thin, poor land, unless 

 given liberal, skillful culture. 



PLANTING, CULTIVATION AND PRUNING. 



I regard autumn as the best season for planting currants, but have 

 succeeded nearly as well in early spring. If kept moist, there is little 

 danger of the plants dying at any time, but those set in the fall or early 

 spring make, the first year, a much larger growth than those planted when 

 the buds have developed into leaves. Since they start so early, they should 

 be set in the spring as soon as the ground is dry enough to work, and in the 

 autumn, any time after the leaves fall or the wood is ripe. The plants of 

 commerce are one, two and three years old, though not very many of the 

 last are sold. I would as soon have one-year plants, if well rooted, as any, 

 since they are cheaper and more certain to make strong, vigorous bushes, 

 if given generous treatment in the open field, than if left crowded too long 

 in nursery rows. For the garden, where fruit is desired as soon as possible, 

 two and three year old plants are preferable. After planting, cut the 

 young bushes back one-half or two-thirds, so as to insure new and vigorous 

 growth. 



In field culture, I recommend that the rows be five feet apart, and the 

 plants four feet from each other, in the row. In this case, 2,178 plants are 

 required for an acre. If it is designed to cultivate them both ways, let the 

 plants be set at right angles five feet apart, an acre now requiring 1,742 

 plants. Sink them two or three inches deeper than they stood in the 



