90 park's first journey. 



he seemed invested with a sacred character, — a man ear- 

 nestly entreating a lock of his hair to be used as * saphie 

 or charm ; and reo(^iving permission to cut it off, he con- 

 trived to crop completely one side of the head. Proceeding 

 towards Sego, he joined on the road several small negro 

 parties ; but, as the country became more populous, hospi- 

 tality was less common. In Moorja, however, though mostly 

 peopled by Mohammedans, he found gayety and abundance. 

 He next passed through several towns and villages, which, 

 in the late war, had been systematically destroyed ; the 

 large bentang tree under which the inhabitants used to 

 meet had been cut down, the wells were filled up, and every 

 thing done which could render the neighbourhood uninha- 

 bitable. He passed also a cofflcj or caravan, of about se- 

 venty slaves tied together by the neck with thongs of bul- 

 locks' hide, seven slaves upon each thong. His horse was 

 now so completely worn out, that, instead of attempting to 

 ride, he was content to drive it before him. Being also 

 barefooted, and in the most miserable plight, he afforded a 

 subject of merriment to the natives, who asked if he had 

 been travelling to Mecca, and made ironical proposals for 

 the purchase of his horse ; even the slaves were ashamed 

 to be seen in his company. 



At length, the near approach to Sego was indicated by 

 crowds hastening to its market ; and Mr. Park was told that 

 on the following day, the 21st July, that primary object of 

 his search, the Joliba or Great Water, would appear before 

 him. He passed a sleepless night, but, starting before day- 

 break, he had the satisfaction, at eight o'clock, to see the 

 smoke rising over Sego. He overtook some former fellow- 

 travellers, and, in riding through a piece of marshy ground, 

 one of them called out, geo affilli (see the water), and look* 

 ing forwards, " I saw," says he, " with infinite pleasure, 

 the great object of my mission, the long-sought-for majestic 

 Niger, glittering to the morning sun, as broad as the 

 Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly to the eastward. 

 I hastened to the brink, and having drunk of the water» 

 lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of 

 all things, for having thus far crowned my endeavours with 

 success." 



Mr. Park now saw before him Sego, the capital of the 

 ■kingdom of liambarra. It consisted of four separate towHiS, 



1 



