CLAPPERTONS SECOND JOURNEY'. 173 



stood, by reports from the coast, the superiority of Euro- 

 peans in arts and wealth, this people viewed them almost as 

 beings of a superior order, to see whom they felt an eager 

 and friendly curiosity. A rumour had also spread that they 

 came to do good, and to make peace wherever there was 

 war. On entering any town they were soon encircled by 

 thousands, all desirous to see white men, and testifying re- 

 spect, — the males by taking oft' their caps, the women by 

 bending on their knees and one elbow. In some places 

 singing and dancing were kept up through the whole night 

 in celebration of their arrival. 



The mission had now to cross a range of hills about eighty 

 miles broad, reported to reach the whole way from behind 

 Ashantee to Benin. The highest pinnacle was not supposed 

 to exceed 2500 feet, which is a good deal lower than Skid- 

 daw ; but its passes were peculiarly narrow and rugged, 

 hemmed in by gigantic blocks of granite 600 or 700 feet 

 high, sometimes fearfully overhanging the road. The valley 

 varied in breadth from 100 yards to half a mile ; but every 

 level spot, extending along the foot of these mountains, or 

 even suspended amid their cliffs, was covered with fine crops 

 of yams, millet, and cotton. A large population thus filled 

 these alpine recesses, all animated with the most friendly 

 spirit. Parties met the travellers on the road, or were sta- 

 tioned on the rocks and heights above, which echoed with 

 choral songs and sounds of welcome. After ascending hill 

 over hill they came to Chaki, a large and populous town, 

 situated on the very summit of the ridge. Here the cabo- 

 ceer had a house and a large stock of provisions ready for 

 them : he put many questions, and earnestly pleaded for a 

 stay of two or three days. 



After descending to the plain, and passing through a num- 

 ber of other towns, the party came to Tshow, where a ca 

 boceer arrived from the king of Yarriba, with a numerous 

 train of attendants both on foot and horseback. This chief, 

 having shaken hands with them, immediately rubbed his 

 whole body, that the blessing of their touch might be spread 

 all over him. His people kept up through the night a con- 

 stant hubbub, — singing, drumming, dancing, and firing ; 

 and, claiming free quarters, they devoured such a quantity 

 of provisions that the party fared worse than in any other 

 place. Next morning they set out with a crowded escort 

 P2 



