BOOK XIV. XI. 80-83 



another, produced in Sicily. Siraeum, by some called 

 hepsema and in our country sapa, is a product of art, 

 not of nature, made by boiHng down must to a third 

 of its quantity ; must boiled down to only one-half 

 is called defrutum. All these wines have been de- 

 vised for adulterating with honey ; but the wines 

 previously mentioned are the product of the grape 

 and of the soil. Next after the raisin-wine of Cretc 

 those of CiHcia and of Africa are held in esteem. 

 Raisin-wine is known to be made in Italy and in the 

 neighbouring provinces from the grape called by the 

 Greeks psithia and by us * muscatel,' '^ and also 

 scripula, the grapes being left on the vine longer 

 than usual to ripen in the sun, or else being ripened 

 in boiHng oil. Some people make this wine from any 

 sweet white grape that ripens early, drying them in 

 the sun tiU Httle more than half their weight remains, 

 and then they beat them and gently press out the 

 juice. Afterwards they add to the skins the same 

 quantity of well-water as they have pressed out juice, 

 so as also to make raisin-wine of second quaHty. The 

 more careful makers, after drying the bunches in the 

 same manner, pick off the berries and soak them 

 without their stalks in wine of good quality tiU they 

 sweH, and then press them — and this kind of wine is 

 the most highly praised of any ; and then they repeat 

 the process, adding more water, and make a wine of 

 second quaHty. 



Between the sirops and real wine is the Hquor that ^"^^- 

 the Greeks caH aigleucos — this is our ' permanent 

 must.' Care is needed for its production, as it must 

 not be aHowed to ' boil ' ^ — that is the word they use to 

 denote the passage of must into wine. Consequently, ^weet mnea. 

 as soon as the must is taken from the vat and put into 



241 



