from the ground, leaving the branches below 

 that point untouched and entire. When plants 

 die, replace them by layers from an adjoining 

 one, as the introduction of new plants hardly 

 ever succeed. The hedge should never be per- 

 mitted to grow higher than 6 feet, so as to keep 

 it within a convenient height for gathering the 

 leaves. After the leaves have been gathered, 

 the hedge should be pruned, and particularly of 

 such branches as may have been injured or kill- 

 ed, as also each spring, in the beginning of April, 

 the dead branches must be pruned from the liv- 

 ing wood with sharp hedge shears, and it should 

 be endeavored at these prunings to give form to 

 the hedge. 



OF THE MORUS MULTICAULIS. 



What we have said above concerning the 

 transplantation of the Mulberry, has relation to 

 the Morus Jllba species, and we now propose to 

 give some brief directions with relation to the 

 space to be occupied by the Morus Multicaulis, 

 both in the hedge and standard tree form. 



If in hedges, they should be planted 3 feet a- 



part in the row, the rows to be six feet asunder. 



If as standard trees, they should be planted in 



rows 8 feet wide, the plants 8 feet apa< t in the 



row. 



This species of the Mulberry partakes more of 

 the character of the shrub than of that of the 

 tree, and, therefore, require less room when 

 planted as standard tree?, and more in hedge. 

 With the difference as to distance above de- 

 scribed, the treatment of this tree must be the 

 same as the Italian Mulberry. 



Having the subject of the Morus Multicaulis 

 again before us, we feel it due alike to ourself, 

 to the public, and to Gideon B. Smith, Esq., to 

 state, that in a recent conversation witli that 

 gentleman, he gave it as his opinion, that any 

 one desiring to enter into the silk culture as a 

 business, must abandon every idea of cultivating 

 any other kind than this, as from its superior fit- 

 ness,in every respect, to the feeding of the worms, 

 it would be impossible that any one growing any 

 other kind could compete with those who fed 

 with it ; that as there are no offal from coarse fi- 

 bres, fully one-third of the labor of gathering 

 will be saved, there being in the other mulberry 

 leaves of fully that amount of coarse matter 

 which is not consumed by the worms. He says 

 further, that the leaves of the Morus Multicaulis 

 yield a finer silk, more delicate in texture anc 

 brilliant in gloss than any other kind. Than th< 

 opinion of Mr. Smith, none better need be re 

 quired, on a matter where he has'had experienc< 

 to form that opinion upon, and, therefore, we 

 should always be cautious in differing on such 

 points with him ; but when we look at the bril 

 liant results of the Italian culturists and manu 

 facturers, we are half tempted to believe tha 



the Morus Jllba makes good-enough-silk, though 

 n economy of labor the Morus Multicaulis is 

 ncomparably the superior of all others. 



DISTANCE OF HEDGE ftOWS. 



With respect to the distance between the 

 ledge rows, we are aware that some are of the 

 opinion that they should be sufficiently wide to 

 admit a cart to pass through while the leaves are 

 )eing gathered, we object to it for these reasons, 

 irst, because the pressure from the horse and cart 

 would so beat down the intervening spaces as to 

 lave an injurious effect upon the vegetation of 

 he trees, and secondly, because the hedge rows 

 would be liable to be injured by the horse and 

 cart. We think it better that the leaves should 

 )e gathered in large baskets, to be conveyed 

 herein to the cart which should be conveniently 

 itationed for that purpose. 



OF MODES OF MULTIPLYING. 



The means of propagating the Mulberry are 

 various, viz: from seed which is the best, as 

 ireviously described, by grafting and budding ; 

 "rotn layers, cuttings and suckers. 



GRAFTING. 



It may be done on the stocks in the nursery, or 

 on the small limbs of trees. The proper season 

 for it is just before the leaves begin to open in 

 spring. The head of the stock must be cut off 

 sloping, and a slit made sloping the opposite way, 

 deep enough to receive the scion, which should 

 be cut like a wedge, with the outside thicker 

 than the inner. The rind of the scion must ex- 

 actly join the rind of the stock. The slit should 

 be opened by a wedge of hard wood; the scion 

 should then be gently put in its place and the 

 stock closed. After this the whole must be daub- 

 ed round with a mortar made of a mixture of 

 loam and fresh horse-dung, so as completely to 

 exclude the access of air; and this mortar must 

 be surrounded by tow or old cloths to prevent it 

 from being washed away. The scion should be 

 covered nearly to the top with this mortar, and it 

 should also extend two or threeinches downwards 

 round the stock. In place of this mortar, For- 

 syth recommends a plaister made of pitch, tur- 

 pentine and beeswax. 



BUDDING. 



Provide yourself with a sharp knife, with a fiat 

 thin haft, and some bass-matting, or corn husk 

 strings; let these be soaked and in readiness. 

 Then select a smooth part of the stock as high as 

 you intend budding : make a horizontal cut across 

 the stock as deep as the firm wood, and then 

 from the centre of it make an incision downwards 

 about an inch ; then take the haft of your knife, 

 and raise the skin on either side of the incision. 

 Then take your knife and cut your bud, which 

 is done in this way. Take your knife, place it 

 about half an inch below the bud, cut slightly in- 

 to the pith or wood, so as to go below the heart 



