of the bud, cut upwards to the same distance I 

 beyond the bud, then cut the bud out, trim off the 

 leaves, insert your bud by raising the rind and ; 

 shoving it down so as to close both sides of theskin 

 on it, joining it closely to the upper edge or hori- 

 zontal cut. Then take your bass or corn husk , 

 string, and bind it close around every part, ex- i 

 cept over the eye or bud, which is to be carefully 

 left out and preserved, and continue it a little 

 above the horizontal cut, not binding it too tight, 

 but sufficiently so to keep the parts close, ex- 

 clude the air, sun and wet ; finish by making the 

 ligature fast. At the expiration of a month loos- 

 en the bandages. In the March following, the 

 heads of all those which have taken, must be cut 

 off just above the part where the bud was insert- 

 ed. 



LAYERS. 



Having dug the ground well and made it light, 

 take some of the most flexible and free growing 

 shoots, slit the shoot underneath a joint or bud, 

 up the middle, and about an inch long, or a little 

 better, according to the size and nature of tbe 

 layer, forming a sort of tongue, laying the part in 

 the earth and raising the top upright so as there- 

 by to separate the tongue of the slit from the oth- 

 er part and keep it open; peg the shoot down 

 with a two pronged stick, leaving about 6 inch- 

 es out of the ground, in an erect position, then 

 cover up with a rich mould, pressing down the 

 earth. The shoots should be layed down in Ju- 

 ly and August and may be taken up or cut off 

 the ensuing autumn, or following spring, when 

 they sho lid be planted out. 



CUTTINGS. 



Cuttings should be taken off with a sharp knife 

 from, shoots of the previous summer's growth. 

 They should be from 6 to 15 inches in length, 

 and should, in all cases where practicable, have a 

 portion of old wood attached to the end to be 

 put in the ground. Let them be planted in a 

 nursery bed, well manured, in rows 18 inches 

 apart, the cuttings 9 inches asunder. They 

 should betaken from the tree between the falling 

 of the leaf in the fall and the swelling of the bud 

 in the spring. In planting, they must be placed 

 two-thirds their own length in the ground, great 

 care being taken to press the ground well around 

 them. In dry weather they must be watered well, 

 say twice a week, be always kept clean of weeds 

 and have the earth stirred two or three times in 

 the course of the summer and spring. The cut- 

 tings when taken from the tree should be wrap 

 ped up in a matting, or put away in dry sand in a 

 dark cellar, and kept until the opening of spring, 

 when they should be planted out, in somewhat a 

 slanting position. If attended to and forced by 

 occasional waterings with suds or the draining^ 

 of dung, they will be fit to transplant the second 

 spring thereafter, either in hedges or orchards. 



SUCKERS. 



These should be separated from the parent 

 plant early in the spring, each with some roots; 

 if of sufficient size, they may immediately be 

 placed in their permanent position; if not let 

 them be put into a nursery bed, two feet apart, 

 where they are to remain until their size indi- 

 cates the propriety of the removal. They must 

 in either case be treated as seedlings or cuttings 

 with respect to being kept clean and watered. 



EARLY SUPPLY OF LEAVES. 



In order to provide against every possible casu- 

 alty from frosts, and to secure an early supply of 

 leaves for the worms oil their first hatching, the 

 culturist should place a hedge in some warm sit- 

 uation, say a southern exposure, well protected 

 from the northern and western winds, and in the 

 spring, early, they should have a covering of 

 plaited straw or matting to protect them from the 

 frost at night. As the worms in their first feed- 

 ing consume but little, this hedge might be lo- 

 cated on a garden border, and as it would only 

 be used for a few days, it would during the rest 

 of the season form a very pretty ornament to the 

 garden : seed might also be sown broadcast or in 

 drills, in a forcing border, or hot bed, to be in 

 readiness to meet the first calls of the worms 

 'or food. There are also other resources to 

 which the agriculturist might resort for the early 

 'ceding of his worms, whenever their hatching 

 may anticipate the leaf of the Mulberry. Let- 

 tuce, Dandelion, the White Raspberry, and the 

 dry leaves of the Mulberry, of the preceding 

 year, reduced to powder, moistened lightly with 

 water, have all been found to answer the pur- 

 pose of temporary feeding; but the use of either 

 hould only be adopted in the event of the hatch- 

 ing of the worms before the appearance of the 

 Mulberry leaves, which should be sedulously 

 guarded against, by carefully keeping the eggs 

 in such a temperature and location as will de* 

 lay the corning forth of the worms until there is 

 a regular supply of food to sustain them. 



DIVISION HEDGES. 



Where ground is an object, the White Mul- 

 berry might be made to perform the place of di- 

 vision fences ; if planted along the fences and 

 wattled in with the rails, in a few years they 

 would form not only a very beautiful but a per- 

 manent living-fence, as when they once fairly 

 take a start, it is impossible to eradicate them, 

 even with the aid of the grubbing hoe and the 

 pick axe; for trees which had been cut down up- 

 wards of twenty years have been known to throw 

 up young shoots every spring, thus manifesting 

 a tenacity for life which render them invaluable 

 as live-fences. It has been ascertained that if 

 the Mtilburry be protected from cattle for two or 

 three years, all further protection will be unne- 

 cessary, as the biting off of the young twigs in 



