8 TEA PLANTING IN 



that it did not reach Holta until a few hours before we 

 ourselves arrived there. 



About the middle of the day, after a hearty lunch, 

 having threaded the steep winding path, often consisting 

 of a series of stone steps, that leads from our lofty 

 habitation in the citadel to the outer gate, where the 

 ponies were in readiness, we mounted and rode off, 

 gingerly at first, for the road was strewed with large 

 round stones, that, impelled by monkeys and feeding 

 goats, roll down from the hill-sides. 



As the valley was reached, we mended our pace, and, 

 in single file, galloped through the narrow winding 

 paths, hedged in many places by the stubborn cactus or 

 shaded by the plantain and tall bamboo. Now and 

 then we passed through a village, and although we were 

 evidently objects of curiosity, the inhabitants squatting 

 in their doorways would only demonstrate their feelings 

 by a prolonged draw at their hookahs. The women, 

 mostly dressed in pegtop trousers, and wearing a large 

 roll, usually of pink calico, that serves as head-dress, 

 veil, and shawl, ran hastily away, often to the imminent 

 danger of the pitchers of water on their heads, while 

 others would sink into a heap on the ground in a manner 

 most ungraceful to behold. Some, however, more bold, 

 would pursue the even tenor of their way, taking 

 particular care at the same time to cover their faces, 

 but, with the curiosity that since the days of Bluebeard 

 has been attributed to the softer sex, would leave their 

 eyes unshrouded to watch the strange feringees. Now 

 a brook had to be crossed ; the hill ponies carefully 

 picked their way over the smooth, worn stones, and 



