Secrets of Ornamental Planting 



Kaiser in 

 \.ufiusta Victoria 



Gruxx an Te-plitz 



Clio 



Eugene Fursl 



Clolilde Son pert 



leaves, leaving the veined net-work or leaf- 

 skeleton. The Rose Beetle also eats the 

 foliage. These can be controlled by spraying 

 with Arsenate of Lead at the rate of one 

 pound of Arsenate of Lead to 12 gallons of 

 water. This should be applied as soon as 

 the work of the insect is noted. Powdered 

 White Hellebore dusted on the foliage will 

 also control the Rose Slug. Be sure to get 

 fresh Hellebore from your drug store. When 

 it turns yellow, it loses strength. Also, the 

 Rose Beetle can be controlled simply by 

 hand picking and dropping in a pan of Kero- 

 sene, which will immediately kill the insects. 

 Plant Lice or Aphis sometimes attack 

 tender shoots of the rose, but they are easy 

 to control by dipping the shoot in a solution 

 of NICOTINE or ordinary soap (one pound 

 of soap to 6 gallons of water). These solu- 

 tions can also be sprayed on the plants if 

 desired. 



A Record of the Rose Garden 



There are so many valuable and interesting 

 new varieties of roses that are being originated 

 every year that it will be desirable to keep a 

 record of all varieties which are planted in 

 each garden. A small diagram of each bed 

 can be made and in addition, the roses may 

 be labeled with some sort of metal label 

 which will not be affected by the weather. 



After-Care of Roses 



After the rose bushes are planted, they 

 will not require much attention with the 

 exception of frequent cultivation and in dry 

 seasons, water will be very beneficial. If 

 the rose bushes tend to grow too upright, the 

 terminal bud can be pinched back and this 

 will make the canes branch out. 



Pruning Roses 



On page 2V we have already explained the 

 method of pruning both the roots and tops 

 at planting time. 



The following Fall after planting the tops 

 can be cut back to within a foot of the ground 

 to make it more convenient for adding the 

 mulch as a winter protection. 



Pruning is very important for success in 

 rose growing. As a general rule, the rose 

 bush should be pruned heavily (of course the 

 climbing roses and ramblers wiil require very 

 little if any pruning, except cutting out the 

 dead wood and weaker branches climbers 

 take care of themselves). After the first 

 season's growth the plant should be pruned 

 the following Spring. Head it back to within 

 8 or 10 inches of the ground, cutting out the 

 weak canes and leaving only the stronger 

 canes to develop. Bear in mind that severe 

 pruning tends to make stronger growth. 

 Therefore, some of the weaker growing kinds 

 require the most severe pruning. Also, severe 

 pruning tends to make the flowers larger. 

 As we have already explained, the canes 

 should be cut back to within a quarter of an 

 inch from a bud that points outward from 

 the middle of the bush. This makes the 

 branches spread. 



Of course, all dead wood should be removed. 

 The number of canes that should be left should 

 range from 4 to 8. Of course, wherever the 

 tops had been injured by winter weather, 

 they should be cut back to good, live wood. 

 Bear in mind the general rule that very 

 vigorous growing kinds will not require as 

 severe pruning as the weak growers; Rosa 

 Rugosa (Japanese Rose) requires very little 

 pruning. It is considered more from its 

 value as a shrub rather than flowers. 



Hardy Garden Roses 



Roses The Several Classes 



(Climbing Roses see page 30.) 

 With the great advance in improved vari- 

 eties of roses we now have roses which bloom 

 from early Spring to Fall of every shade and 

 color imaginable and with delightful fragrance 

 and yet these wonderful new roses are thrifty 

 growers and hardy in most severe climates. 

 When you plant a rose garden, you have a 

 relatively permanent planting bushes which 

 will grow stronger year after year and will 

 fill the home with beautiful fragrant roses 

 throughout the Spring and Summer and until 

 late Fall. Because of its permanency, a rose 

 garden is more desirable than a flower garden 

 made up entirely of plants which die out in 

 the winter and require replacing the next 

 Spring with additional trouble and expense. 

 There are thousands of roses, but after 

 thorough testing, our Rose Experts have 

 selected the following list as the best. Follow- 

 ing the name of each variety is given the 

 initials, which indicate the class to which it be- 

 longs. Note following abbreviations for rose 

 classes: H p. Hybrid Perpetual. 



H. R. Hybrid Rugosa. 

 R. Rugosa or Japanese. 



H. T. Hybrid Tea. 



H. C. Hardy Climber. 

 T. Tea. 



Poly. Polyantha or Baby Ramblers 



Moss Moss. 



ANNA DE DIESBACH ( H. P.) An old and 

 well-known variety of grandmother's garden. 

 Flowers large, full and of bright pink. 

 BABY RAMBLER (Poly.) (Mad. Norbert 

 Levavasseur.) A dwarf bushy plant with large, 

 compact clusters of bright crimson flowers, 

 borne in profusion. A hardy", vigorous, con- 

 tinuous bloomer. Fine for edging around 

 taller growing varieties. It is also used as a 

 pot plant for indoor culture and hedges. 

 BURBANK (China). Free blooming with 

 cherry-rose colored flowers. A good bedder. 

 CATHERINE ZEIMET (Poly.) Flowers 

 pure white in immense clusters. Fragrant. 

 All the characteristics of the Baby Rambler 

 type. Good for edging. 



CLIO ( H. P.) A vigorous grower. Flowers 

 large, globular, "flesh color shaded to pink in 

 center. A free bloomer. Very good as a 

 garden variety. 



CLOTHILDE SOUPERT (Poly.) One of 

 the very best bedders. A familiar ivorv-white 



* 



Maman 

 Cachet 



Madame Plantier 



[28] 



General Jaqueminot Baby Rambler 



