NOTES ON TRAVEL 247 



might go on for a week describing and not exhaust one-tenth of 

 the oddities that one sees every moment. The crowds are 

 prodigious, they swarm and struggle for space to stand or sit 

 on. I am getting fluent in ' ghar ko jaloo, 3 etc. The most 

 familiar part of Hindostani is the imperative mood, and indeed 

 many Anglo-Indians never get beyond it. We have also a 

 Goanese sprite, who goes and comes at our bidding. He is sup- 

 posed to know English, and readily understands what one wants, 

 but his replies are often enigmas. However, with ' nods and 

 becks and wreathed smiles ' we get along pretty well. You will 

 wonder where education comes in here. Well, I have had long 

 talks with Mr. Justice Candy, the Vice-Chancellor of the Bombay 

 University, and with Mr. Giles, the Director of Public Instruction. 

 I have seen a reasonably good technical laboratory run by 



as a private spec. He evidently has a lot of go about 



him. I have seen the Wilson College, where a sort of junior 

 arts and science course is given. They, too, are dependent on 

 the Bombay University, an examining body, with affiliated 

 colleges after the fashion of London University in 1859, when 

 they were founded. I had to give a short account of what I 

 intended to do. That is to go to Poonah on Sunday afternoon, 

 spend Monday there ; start on Monday night for Bangalore 

 and arrive in 36 hours ; thence to Madras, where we spend some 

 days ; thence to Calcutta by sea (Xinas on the ocean) and stay 

 over the new year at Calcutta. Then up the Ganges valley to 

 Benares, etc., as far as Lahore I think, and then back to Bombay 

 by Allahabad. Padshah, the secretary, will not come with us. 

 I want to see things with my own eyes, and not through his 

 spectacles ; he is theosophist, vegetarian, altruistic, and an 

 admirable Crichton after the Indian model. We are going to see 

 the Towers of Silence on Thursday. On Saturday we are to see 

 the Caves of Elephanta and also Jain temples. But the streets 

 are the real attraction. We spent a, couple of hours this morning 

 wandering through the markets." 



