FERMENTATION, 245 



grapes from the stalks, in others the must is fermentea with 

 the stalks ; the mode should vary according to the nature of 

 the grape, and the use for which tlie wine is designed. In 

 the south, they pluck the grapes for wine that is destined for 

 the table, and they do not pluck them for wine which is to 

 be burned or distilled. 



M. Labadie, the proprietor of a vineyard, and a very en- 

 lightened man, states that the wine made from the white 

 grapes of Champagne is brisker, and less likely to become 

 oily, when made of fruit that has not been plucked. 



Don Gentil is convinced, from his own experience in 

 wine-making, that fermentation proceeds with a greater de- 

 gree of energy and regularity in must from grapes that have 

 not been plucked, than in that of plucked grapes. 



The stalks contain a slightly bitter principle, which is 

 communicated to the wine, and improves the taste of such 

 as is naturally flat, and at the same time fermentation is 

 facilitated by them. According to this, the fruit should be 

 separated from the stalks whenever the must can be made, 

 without any addition, to undergo a good fermentation, and 

 produce first-rate wine ; and the stalks ought not to be re- 

 moved from such grapes as usually afford only an ordinary, 

 clammy kind of wine, which does not keep well. Nor 

 should such grapes as contain a large portion of sugar be 

 separated from the stalks, as they will then produce too 

 sweet a wine. 



The temperature of the cellars in which the must is fer- 

 mented is seldom equal to 12'' of Reaumur, (= 59° Fahr.) 

 and the heat of the atmosphere, and consequently that of 

 the grapes does not often indicate that degree ; and yet 

 the must cannot be well fermented at less than from 52° to 

 59° Fahr., and in order to insure a perfect fermentation the 

 heat should rise thus high. 



The cellars might be heated by stoves, and the grapes 

 placed in them before being pressed, till they had acquired 

 the necessary degree of warmth ; or what would be better 

 still, the must might be heated in boilers before being thrown 

 into the vat ; in this way fermentation would take place in a 

 shorter time, and be more lively and complete. 



As soon as the liquor is in the vat, it should be closely 

 covered over with boards and old coverlids, or, in prefer- 

 ence, with the furniture belonging to the manufacture of 

 wine. By intercepting all communication with the exter- 

 nal air, the must is secured from being affected by the 

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