LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN 1 1 5 



best to water the ground thoroughly quite a little time 

 before transplanting and then shade with boards, lat- 

 tice or any similar covering for a few days after. If only 

 small numbers of seedlings are to be transplanted it 

 may be done late in the afternoon, when they will have 

 a night in which to recover from the moving. 



WINTER PROTECTION FOR HARDY PLANTS. 



In northern sections, where there is severe freezing 

 more or less alternating with thawing weather, some 

 precautions are needed to protect the plants from 

 severe injury or even destruction. If this covering is 

 put on too thick, it will cause heating or fermentation 

 and the plants are killed. Coarse hay, straw, pine 

 needles, all make good protection. Coarse strawy ma- 

 nure, if the garden is not in too conspicuous a place 

 may be used, and will afford protection and supply 

 plant-food the following season. All coverings should be 

 removed before growth begins in the spring and before 

 extremely warm weather, as any green foliage under 

 it will be blanched and rendered weak. 



Dutch Bulbs. 



No class of plants gives so much of beauty for the 

 time and expense incurred as the hyacinth, tulip, crocus, 

 and other so-called Dutch bulbs (Fig. 35). Most of the 

 bulbs used are imported from Holland, whence the name 

 " Dutch bulb, " and grow but one year, though many of 

 them will continue under favorable conditions for a great 

 many years from one planting. Thus the tulip, and the 

 daffodil in a rich garden, will continue for a decade, or 

 even a quarter of a century, and produce many good 

 flowers. The hyacinth and crocus are not as lasting, 

 but will continue to bloom freely for two or three years 

 and sometimes longer. They may be planted in the 



