12 THE SMYRNA FIG AT HOME AND ABROAD 



small park, quite prettily laid out, while the children, young and old, were neatly 

 attired and evidently belonged to the better classes. After partaking of an excellent 

 meal at one of the leading restaurants, we returned to our steamer, but in a carriage; 

 as the rain was coming down in torrents and walking was out of the question. Our 

 boatman was on hand, his anxiety to return us safely being enhanced by his not 

 having received his fare. 



Late on the afternoon of the llth, the steamer touched at Smyrna, situated at the 

 northeast corner of the Bay of Smyrna. The steamer travels close to the shore for 

 a number of miles, and the greyish green of the olive trees, interspersed here and 

 there with the bright green of the vineyards, makes a striking picture with the dark 

 uncultivated hills for a background. 



No sooner had our steamer dropped her anchor than a violent rain storm sprang 

 up, and it was some little time before we could land. Rain in Asia Minor in June 

 is very unusual, as I was informed later on, but the season of 1901 was an exception in 

 this respect. 



Examination of my baggage had to be gone through with as usual, but no particular 

 difficulty was encountered except that all my books were taken from me, but after 

 they had been scrutinized by one of the scholarly custom house officials, nothing 

 inimical to the welfare of the Sultan's realm having been found in them, they were 

 later on, after I had furnished the material to grease the governmental wheels, 

 returned to me. Guides are always on hand in all Oriental countries, and having 

 found one who spoke German. I was conducted by him to the "Grand Hotel Huk," 

 located close to the quay and the landing place for all passengers coming to Smyrna 

 by water. 



Grand is a prefix which all the hotels are blessed with, whether good, bad or 

 indifferent. The Huk was nothing to brag of. It was here I had my first experience 

 with the lively bed bug, but my troubles were mild as compared with my experience 

 in other places in the interior towns of Asia Minor. 



Registers are unknown in these parts, and I therefore handed the portier my card, 

 little dreaming at the time it might get me into trouble. Events later on will show 

 I had made a mistake. 



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