THE SMYKNA FIG AT HOME AND ABROAD 29 



CHAPTER IV. 

 THE TRIP TO SMYRNA BY LAND. 



To escape the quarantine regulations, the trip to Smyrna was made overland. 

 Starting from Constantinople on the 26th of August, the Bosphorus was crossed on 

 a small ferry boat, landing us at Scutari. Here a train was boarded, and for several 

 hours we traveled close to the shore, getting a beautiful view of the sea of Mar- 

 mora, and in the distance the snow-covered peaks of the Olympus Mountains. Just 

 after leaving the coast, the train came to a halt, and we learned we were at the 

 quarantine station. All the passengers were required to alight. The first and 

 second-class passengers were marched into a building, their coats and vests were 

 removed, and after being fumigated in a large cylinder, were returned. The lower 

 classes were not accorded the same consideration. The women were marched into 

 one building, the men into another. They were compelled to divest themselves of 

 their clothes. The women in particular were loud in their objections, but it availed 

 them nothing for they had to submit. After the better class of passengers had 

 paid a fee of a quarter of a midjidi, about 25 cents, they received a certificate of 

 good health. The fact of the matter is the quarantine regulations of the Turkish 

 Empire are nothing more or less than a farce, and are maintained for the purpose 

 of supplying the officials of the government with ready cash. 



A few hours after leaving the quarantine station, the railroad strikes into the 

 mountainous districts, and passes through a succession of valleys and narrow 

 passes, all of which are heavily wooded. The former are very fertile and devoted 

 to fruit and vineyard culture, but more extensively to the growing of the White 

 Mulberries, to supply food for the silk worms, the production of silk being the great 

 industry in this district. The trees are planted very close, about 8x8 feet apart, and 

 headed three feet from the ground. In the distance they present the appearance of 

 vineyards. 



Late in the evening our train reached Eshki-shehr, where we remained over 

 night. For fear of being wrecked by the superstitious and fanatical natives, trains 

 never travel at night in Asia Minor. This town is of considerable importance, and 

 is located on an immense plateau, devoted largely to the raising of wheat and bar- 

 ley, and also noted for its marble and meerschaum mines. 



The night at the hotel was a constant torture. It was infested with bed 

 bugs, and the persistence with which all the vulnerable parts of one's anatomy 

 were attacked put all thoughts of sleep out of the question. 



Early the following morning we boarded our train, and at noon arrived at Afium 

 Kara Hissar, located in the center of a great district devoted to the growing of 

 cereals, opium, and enjoying also an immense trade in wool, hides and beeswax. 

 The altitude of the town is 3500 feet above sea level. Close to the town, and rising 

 800 feet out of the plain, the remnants of the old fortress of Acroenus, built in the 

 Byzantine period, is to be seen. The place is largely populated by Armenians, many 

 of whom are wealthy, and who occupy the best and cleanest portion of the town. No 

 trees relieve the monotony of the low adobe buildings and dirty and crooked streets, 

 giving to the place a dismal and uninviting appearance. 



