54 THE SMYRNA PIG AT HOME AND ABROAD 



a clean, smooth surface with a sharp knife. When planting the tree, be sure to fill 

 in with surface soil first, carefully spreading out the roots in as nearly a natural posi- 

 tion as possible. When set, the tree should stand at the same height out of the 

 ground as it stood in the nursery, or at the most not over 2 inches deeper. The earth 

 should be well firmed around the roots, but in order to insure a successful growth 

 each tree should be given at least ten to twenty gallons of water. When planting is 

 completed, the trees should be cut back to at least 20 inches from the ground, and 

 the wounds covered with rubber paint or grafting wax. 



As the reader learns further on in this work, Smyrna Fig culture is only feasible 

 by the addition to his orchard of trees of the Wild or Capri Figs, and the assistance 

 of the Fig Wasp (Blastophaga grossorum). Capri Figs are the natural home of this 

 insect, and though essential to every orchard, do not require the care and attention 

 of the Smyrnas. The general practice is to plant them in a single row or hedge; or, 

 if planted in orchard form, in a block by themselves to one corner of the grove. The 

 trees should be set about 20 feet apart. To insure immunity from severe cold 

 weather, and to protect the life of the insects, it is often advisable to plant Capri 

 Figs in sheltered localities against buildings and other protected situations. 



AFTER CARE AND IRRIGATION. 



The after care of the fig tree is less exacting than the average citrus or deciduous 

 fruit orchard, and in this respect much resembles the care and labor bestowed on an 

 olive grove. While it is conceded that the Smyrna Fig will withstand more or less 

 neglect, it is nevertheless keenly alive to good culture and healthy growing condi- 

 tions. Clean culture will pay the grower, and where the rainfall is less than eight to 

 ten inches annually, irrigation must be resorted to, especially in the warm interior 

 valleys of Central and Southern California and portions of Arizona. As a general 

 proposition, only one irrigation is necessary, namely, before or just about the time 

 that the Smyrna crop is fertilized by the Blastophaga, which occurs usually during 

 June and July in the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys. Irrigation, in sections of 

 scant rainfall, or during seasons of drouth, may be essential oftener than once a year; 

 of this the grower must be his own judge. A want of proper moisture in the soil 

 during the growing season is quite as apt to check the development of the Smyrna 

 Fig as any other crop. On the other hand, care must also be exercised to avoid 

 irrigating orchards situated on lands that are sub-irrigated by waters from running 

 ditches seeping underground and spreading under the land. Soils of this nature 

 when cultivated, are quite apt to bring up this moisture from below by capillary attrac- 

 tion. A safe guide to follow is to learn the character of your soil. In digging the 

 ground, if it should turn up at a depth of say ten inches dry and crumbly, refusing to 

 mold to the form of the hand when sampled, it is safe to say that your ground can 

 be irrigated to the advantage of the trees and growing crop. 



A Smyrna Fig orchard should be plowed reasonably deep (except close to the 

 trees), and cross-plowed once a year, and well cultivated during the growing season. 

 Should the trees be wanting in vigor and robustness, or fail in producing good crops 

 of merchantable fruit, it is an indication that the soil is poor in plant food, and needs 

 an application of fertilizer. 



PRUNING. 



The fig requires less work with the saw and shears than any other variety of fruit 

 tree; notwithstanding this fact, it is important to observe a few simple rules, for 

 mistakes in pruning are difficult to rectify, and an error in using good judgment in 

 this line may result in a loss of a crop for several years to come, as well as impair 

 the vitality of the tree. 



The first season, from three to four branches should be allowed to diverge from 

 the body of the tree, none of which should start at a point closer than twelve inches 



