ROSES PLANTED UNDER GLASS 55 



out a sufficient space with a spade and against the back wall of 

 this the stem of the plant may rest while the roots are spread 

 out, radiating fan- wise over the rather shallow depression. The 

 spreading of the roots in a lateral direction at an average depth of 

 4 inches is much to be preferred to any method which fixes them 

 almost perpendicularly into the soil, for these surface roots will 

 produce the maximum of flowers while the deep-running roots 

 will produce the maximum of growth. We, of course, look for 

 both, but we have to specially provide for the former, being quite 

 sure that in due course the plant will do the other for itself. Do 

 not make the mistake of burying the plant itself too deeply. The 

 union of the bud and stock must be barely covered, and the soil 

 lightly trodden to make it firm, but not hard, over the roots and 

 around the stem. In all probability if this is done, the rose will 

 of itself start rooting independent of the stock, and this is, of course, 

 all to the good. 



Unless sunny weather has dried the compost, water should not 

 yet be given to the new bed ; but a plentiful supply of fresh air 

 must be passed through the house continuously throughout the 

 winter. A month after planting, when new roots have taken hold of 

 the compost, a careful, but slight watering can be given if the condition 

 of the soil calls for it, but do not administer a real soaking that 

 will not be needed for some months ; but plenty of air is imperative, 

 even during frosty weather, air regulated and yet abundant. 



In February the first pruning takes place, and this, as we have 

 pointed out in our remarks on pot plants, being the first, must be 

 drastic, so that you can form and build up the plants to your liking. 

 Do nothing to hasten growth, but do all you can to consolidate and 

 strengthen by a slow growth, so that the foundations of a long-lived, 

 prolific plant may be well and truly laid. As the growth begins, a 

 slight syringing every bright morning will be of great benefit and 

 incidentally will help to discourage the green aphis. Regulate the 

 number of breaks by rubbing off those that are superfluous, for the 

 first season at least, restricting the number according to the size 

 and vigour of the plant. 



No regular fire heat must be maintained, indeed none must be 

 put on till the foliage has unfolded, and then only for occasional 

 protection during sharp weather or to guard against an expected 



