WE LAND AT ACCRA 21 



coin is worth about twice as much as its equivalent 

 in a note. 



As the surf -boat plunges into the race of white horses 

 the boys cease singing they now need all their breath 

 for keeping the little boat on the move so that she 

 does not get swamped. The helmsman dexterously 

 prevents the boat getting broadside on to the waves, 

 and on either side of us we see backs bent double as 

 in a rapid succession of strokes the paddles cleave the 

 breakers; we are getting quite sufficient of a shower- 

 bath from the spray to feel that we were well-advised 

 to put on our macintoshes for this " joy-ride " to the 

 shore. We are still a good distance from the land 

 when the boat begins to grate on the bottom of 

 the sea; the helmsman, keenly watching his oppor- 

 tunities, turns her where another wave, another, and 

 yet another can be made to help the crew get her 

 several yards nearer in. Suddenly, above the roar 

 of the breakers, there rises a shrill word of command, 

 and in the same second every boy of the crew is in the 

 water, hauling the boat beachwards. Even when 

 she is beached there is still water all around her. We 

 are wondering whether we are expected to take off 

 our shoes and stockings and wade, when our host tells 

 us that all white people are carried ashore. Ladies 

 are "chaired" to dry land; each sits tight in the 

 armchair in which she has made the passage, whilst it 

 is hoisted up and overboard by some of the darkie 

 crew, and passed on to others who seize it by the legs, 

 carry it aloft, and eventually lower it gently on to a 

 spot well beyond the water's reach, for all the world 

 as if they were paying homage to a heroine. The men 

 make this last little stage of the journey in a comically 

 different way ; the darkies pick them up in their arms 



