Pruning. 



GRAPE MANUAL. 



Pruning. 45 



much none of the canes will ripen their wood 

 as thoroughly nor be as vigorous as when each 

 has room, air and light. Having selected these, 

 commence at the bottom of the vine, rubbing 

 off all superfluous shoots, and all which appear 

 weak and imperfect. Then go over each arm 

 or part of the vine, pinching every fruit-bearing 

 branch above the last bunch of grapes, or, if 

 this should look weak or imperfect, remove it 

 and pinch back to the first perfectly developed 

 bunch. Should the bud have pushed out two 

 or three shoots, it will generally be advisable 

 to leave only the strongest, and remove the 

 balance. Do not think that you can depart 

 of it a little later, but be unsparing in taking 

 away all you intend to take this time. Destroy 

 all the caterpillars and all. the insects you find 

 feeding on the vines, and the steel-blue beetle, 

 as it will eat into tbe buds. But protect the 

 lady-bug, manti?, and all the friends of the 

 vine. 



After the first pinching, the dormant buds 

 in the axils of the leaves, on fruit-bearing 

 shoots, will each push out a lateral shoot oppo- 

 site the young bunches. Our second operation 

 consists in pinching each of these laterals r.ack 

 to one leaf as soon as we can got hold of the 

 shoot above the first leaf, so that. we get a young 

 vigorous leaf additional opposite to each bunch 

 of grapes. These serve as elevators of the sap, 

 and also as an excellent protection and shade 

 to the fruit. Remember, our aim is riot to rob 

 the plant of its foliage, but to make two leaves 

 grow where there was but one before, and at 

 a place where they are of more benefit to the 

 fruit. By our method, our rows of vines have 

 the appearance of leafy walls, each bunch of 

 the fruit properly shaded, and yet each part of 

 the vine is properly ventilated. 



After the second pinching of the fruit-bearing 

 branches, as described above, the laterals will 

 generally start once more, and we pinch the 

 young gi-owth again to one leaf, thus giving 

 ach lateral two well-developed leaves. The 

 whole course should be completed about the 

 middle of June here and whatever grows 

 afterwards should be left. In closing, let us 

 glance at the objects we have in view : 



1. To keep the vine within proper bounds, 

 so that it is at all times under the control of the 

 vintner, without weakening ifs constitution by 

 robbing it of a great amount of foliage. 



2. Judicious thinning of the fruit at a time 

 when no vigor has been expended in its devel- 

 opment. 



3. Developing strong, healthy foliage by forc- 

 ing the growth of the laterals, and having two 

 young, healthy leaves opposite each bunch, 



which will shade the fruit and serve as conduc- 

 tors of the sap to the fruit. 



4. Growing vigorous canes for next year's 

 fruiting and no more, thereby making them 

 stronger ; as every part of the vine is thus ac- 

 cessible to light and air, the wood will ripen 

 better and more xmiformly. 



5. Destruction of noxious insects. As the 

 vintner has to look over each shoot of the vine, 

 this is done more thoroughly and systematic- 

 ally than by any other process. 



FALL, OB WINTER PRUNING. 



This may be performed at any time, during 

 mild days, while the vine is in a dormant state, 

 generally from November to March, but should 

 be done at least a week before vegetation is 

 likely to commence. Tender varieties should 

 not be allowed to pass through our sometimes 

 severe winters without the protection afforded 

 by a mulch of litter, leaves, earth, or other cov- 

 ering, to prevent injury from alternate freezing 

 and thawing; the vines which are not hardy 

 must therefore be pruned in November, when 

 they are simply laid down on the ground and 

 mulched lightly, to be uncovered again in 

 spring, just before they are ready to put forth 

 new growth from their swelling b'.:ds. Far- 

 ther north, the practice of covering up the vines, 

 both tops and roots, is recommendable also 

 with the hardy varieties. 



Different varieties will require somewhat dif- 

 ferent treatment; some varieties (strong grow- 

 ers 1 will fruit better if pruned to spurs on old 

 wood than on the young canes, retaining the 

 old canes and pruning the healthy, strong 

 shoots or laterals they have to two buds, 

 whereas others (only moderate growers) will 

 flourish and bear best when pruned short and 

 to a cane of last year's growth. 



The observing vintner will find some hints in 

 our descriptive catalogue, but only by practice 

 and experience can he learn the best method 

 for each variety. 



The following correct views on this subject 

 are from the "Grape Culturist," Nov., 1870 : 



" Some varieties will bear more readily and 

 larger bunches upon the laterals of the young 

 canes, some upon the spurs of a few eyes on old 

 bearing branches, and some will fruit readily 

 upon the principal canes. This should govern 

 you in pruning. 



" Most of the strong groirers of the Labrusca 

 species (Concord, Hartford, Ives, Martha, Per- 

 kins, etc.), as well as some of its more vigorous 

 hybrids (Goethe^ Wilder, etc.), and especially 

 some JEstivalis (Herbemont, Cunningham, 

 Louisiana, Rulander), will fruit best on the late- 



