THE DAIRY. 293 



that name where they first became known. They are chiefly 

 produced in the county of Leicester, and especially in the 

 villages round Melton Mowbray ; but they are likewise manu- 

 factured in the counties of Lincoln, Huntingdon, and Rut- 

 land, still retaining the name of Stilton. These cheeses, 

 it has been said, are formed from the morning's milk, with 

 the addition of the cream of the preceding evening. They 

 are in great request, from their superior richness and agree- 

 able flavour ; but, from their high price, their consumption 

 is limited to the more wealthy classes, and their economical 

 importance is therefore greatly inferior to that of the more 

 common kinds. They are not reckoned sufficiently mellow 

 for use until they are two years old, when they are in a state 

 of incipient decomposition. In the county of Cambridge are 

 produced the rich cheeses of Cottenham and Southam. 

 Another kind of cheese is produced in Yorkshire, Lincoln- 

 shire, and many par.ts of England, formed wholly of coagu- 

 lated cream. This must be used in the recent state, and is 

 merely the subject of household luxury. 



Scotland, although abounding in milk, is greatly inferior 

 to England with respect to the production of the finer kinds 

 of cheese. The cheeses of Scotland are, for the most part, 

 meagre and deficient in richness, flavour, and aroma ; but, 

 with the progress of the dairy, this manufacture has been long 

 in a state of improvement. The district of Cuningham, in 

 Ayrshire, became the first distinguished for the manufacture 

 of cheese, which is known by the name of Dunlop, and has 

 long been much esteemed, and is largely used in the western 

 counties of Scotland. It is mild and well tasted, but want- 

 ing in the peculiar pungency which distinguishes the finer 

 cheeses of England. It has, however, been continually im- 

 proving with the enlarging demand, and more extended prac- 

 tice of the dairy. Similar cheese is produced in the neigh- 

 bouring counties of Renfrew and Lanark. In general, the 

 practice in the Scotch dairies is economical, simple, and 

 efficient ; but the manual processes are less carefully executed 



