IBEX- SHOOTING IN SPAIN. 167 



on the scene of the great earthquake of 1884, evidences of 

 which were plentiful enough among the scattered hill- 

 villages. Already many mule-teams, heavily laden with 

 merchandise from the coast- town of Motril, were wending 

 their laborious way inland. It is worth noting that in 

 front of five or six laden mules it is customary to harness 

 a single donkey. This animal does little work : but always 

 passes approaching teams on the proper side, and, more- 

 over, picks out the best parts of the road. This enables the 

 driver to go to sleep, and the plan, we were told, is a good 

 one. 



At Lanjaron we breakfasted at the ancient fonda of 

 San Eafael, where the Ijright and beautifully polished 

 brass and copper cooking utensils hanging on the walls 

 were a sight to make a careful housewife envious. We 

 watched our lireakfast cooked over the charcoal-fire, and 

 learned a good deal thereby. We w^ere delayed here a 

 whole da}' by snow-storms. There is stabling under the fonda 

 for 500 pack-animals, for Lanjaron in its "' season " is an 

 important place, frequented by invalids from far and near. 

 Its mineral-springs are reputed efficacious : but the 

 drainage arrangements are villainous in the extreme, and 

 altogether it seemed a village to be avoided. Sad traces 

 of the cholera were everywhere visible, many doors and 

 lintels bearing the ominous sign : it was curious that in so 

 few cases had it been erased. 



We left before daybreak, and a few leagues further on 

 the ascent became very steep and abrupt, the hill-crests 

 whither we were bound within view, but wreathed in mist. 

 Only one traveller did we meet in the long climb from 

 Orjiva to Capileira, and he bringing two mule-loads of 

 dead and dying sheep, worried by wolves just outside 

 Capileira the night before. Expecting that the wolves 

 would certainly return, we prepared to wait up that night 

 for them : ])ut were dissuaded, the argument being " that 

 is exactly what they will expect ! No, those wolves will 

 probably not come back this winter." But return they 

 did, both that night and several following. The night 

 before we left Capileira on the return journey (a fortnight 



